More than two for tea

"WE'LL be live on the 24th," says chef Michael Martin - using the sort of rock `n' roll language that seems appropriate given his bosses. He rides a Harley and again that fits the image, but for the man who works behind the scenes in the kitchen that's where the glamour ends and the graft begins.

As chef at the Tea Room, the restaurant in The Clarence Hotel, he's conscious of the huge expectations on his shoulders. "What we're aiming for is a restaurant in a hotel and not a hotel restaurant - and that's a first."

All this week the hotel has been open to a handful of guests and they've had access to the Tea Room. But the real tasters have been general manager Claire O'Reilly and the owners Bono, the Edge and Harry Crosbie and their friends, who have been popping in and out to sample the menu.

By the official opening day next Monday, Michael is confident that everything will be perfect. Talking about the food and his desire to make the restaurant a success, especially for the owners, the Dublin born chef says, with genuine and touching sincerity, that it's important because "it's to fulfill their dreams".

THE 29 year old East Wall man came to the Tea Room from catering college in Cathal Brugha Street via lengthy stints training in London under the famous Roux Brothers at La Gavroche, and Nico Ladenis in Chez Nico. He spent a year at Dublin's La Stampa before coming to the "old" Tea Room. Its refurbishment four years ago never quite worked. The room with its 20 foot high ceiling, and splendidly big windows is so grand that it can, and did, seem a little cold and daunting.

It is now a 100 seater restaurant that's as cool and elegantly stylish as the rest of the hotel. Banqueting seating in the centre of the room breaks up the space nicely, creating a more intimate feel, as does the repositioning of the bar on a different level at the back of the room.

The jewel colours and materials used in the bedrooms are carried through to the dining room - red carpet on the floor, oak chairs upholstered in blue, white linen tablecloths and white fabric screens on the windows. As with everywhere else in the hotel, there has been meticulous attention to detail, with extraordinarily expensive touches such as the French Chirstofle cutlery and Christalle glassware.

The food is similarly stylish. "If I was to describe what I'm going for, it would be modern, simple food with an emphasis on lightness," Michael says typical dishes include Grilled Red Mullet with Wilted Salad and Orange Vinaigrette; Steamed Bass with Crab and Basil Pasta; Thai Coconut Soup; and Breast of Duck with iced cucumber. Main courses average £12. Michael has been punching in 18 hour days for the past three weeks. Apart from main meals the kitchen bakes six different types of biscuits, and three breads. A month ago he made batches of preserves and marmalades. "That's the brilliant thing about a hotel this size - it's small enough for those sorts of detail," says Michael.