Today, four Irish people who make wine in France while living part-time in Ireland. All of the wines featured here are organic or in the process of certification.
Andrew Eakin and his wife, Naomi Murtagh, are both from Cavan. Their journey to owning two châteaux in the Côtes de Blaye in Bordeaux involved stints living in Paris and London, where they set up the successful Bottle Apostle chain of wine shops, before deciding to start making wine. They now divide their time between Bordeaux and Dublin.
Les Deux Cols is owned by Irishmen Simon Tyrrell and Gerard Maguire, along with former sommelier now wine importer Charles Derain. Located in a cooler, high-altitude part of the Southern Rhône, the team produces wines (red and white) with an elegance and subtlety that belies their origin.
Château Tour des Termes was the property of green entrepreneur and wine lover Eddie O’Connor. Sadly, he died in January, but his family will continue his dream of producing high-quality wine in Saint-Estèphe, in Bordeaux.
Ballina pharmacist Róisín Curley is a micro-négociant, buying small parcels of grapes from trusted growers in Burgundy and Beaujolais, and transforming them into some exquisite wines.
Château Puynard Tradition 2018, Blaye, Côtes de Bordeaux
14%, €20-€21.95
Seductive pure plum fruits in abundance with lightly drying tannins. It would go nicely with firm cheeses, charcuterie or grilled red meats.
From: Barnhill Stores, Glenageary; La Touche, Greystones; Remonds, D6; Jus du Vin, Portmarnock.
Les Deux Cols Chemins des Fonts 2022, Côtes du Rhône
14%, €33-€36
A very stylish, morish wine with nicely balanced dark cherry and forest fruits, a savoury edge, and a long smooth finish. This would go nicely with roast pork, firm cheeses and herby bean dishes.
From: La Touche, Greystones; 64wine, Glasthule; Searsons, Monkstown; McHugh’s, D5; Green Man Wines, D6w; The Vintry, D6; Ely, Maynooth; Wineonline.ie.
Château Tour des Termes 2016, Saint-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
13%, €50
Still quite youthful with concentrated smooth spicy dark blackcurrant fruits and good well-integrated tannins on the finish. Very lovely classic Bordeaux. Enjoy it with a roast of lamb or beef.
From: Searsons, Monkstown; Kelly’s, D3; La Touche, Greystones.
Saint-Romain ‘Le Jarron’ 2022
12.5%, €79
Elegant, nervy and refreshing with lime zest, succulent pear and stone fruits with grilled almonds. The finish is long and dry. Enjoy with scallops, black sole or salmon in a buttery sauce.
From: independent wine shops including Mitchell & Son; Green Man Wine, D6w; Redmonds, D6; Theallotment.ie; Whelehan’s Wines, Loughlinstown; La Touche, Greystones.
