A collection from the Vivienne Westwood archive featuring clothes modelled by Kate Moss, Yasmin Le Bon, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington goes for auction next month.
The 55-lot collection spanning 1985 to 1995 is expected to fetch more than £20,000 sterling, with individual lots ranging from £200 to £650. It's part of Christie's 330-lot annual street style auction, comprising relatively recent costume from the late 1950s to the present day, with designers like Biba, Ossie Clark and Bill Gibb.
The value of old clothes tends to be determined by designer and condition. Ms Suzette Shields, costume specialist at the auction house, said: "Generally what we're selling in recent auctions would need to be wearable because it's going to be bought to be worn. So long as it's not too moth-eaten, there's a chance that it would be interesting."
A sign of a good piece can be when you can instantly recognise the designer by the style. Prices don't tend to be very high for relatively recent costume, unless someone famous has worn it. You're going to get less than you paid for it in most cases. "For the man on the street, you're not looking at enormous amounts," she says.
Most pieces in the auction are used, although some of the Vivienne Westwood lots haven't been worn. "A lot of them have only been used on the catwalk. Some haven't been used at all. One or two other lots haven't been used but generally things have been worn but worn carefully."
A lace New Bettina jacket and multicoloured tulle explosion skirt with a pair of lavender coloured "prostitute" stilettos is estimated at £400-£500 sterling. "Yes, they have very precise names for some of the things and some of them are quite rude. They're just eccentric," says Ms Shields.
The earliest pieces in the auction date from Westwood's Mini Crini show launched in spring/summer 1985. It marked a significant change in direction for Westwood with a return to a more traditional fit. When people think of Westwood, they tend to think of the earlier punk things but, from 1985 the clothes change radically. For instance, the Mini Crini show took a saucy look at 19th century crinolines - the enormous hooped skirts.
"There's a slight twist on classic 18th and 19th century fashions. In this case, she's taken a crinoline that would be a very large skirt and made a mini crinoline.
"A lot of these things are manipulating the body form. She puts cages underneath so it makes the hips look bigger, whereas some designers would try to make the model look like a stick. She accentuates curves."
One lot comprising a giant polka dot mini crini, union jack gypsy blouse and white leather wedge mules (shoes with toes covered but open at the back) is estimated at £400-£600.
A riding outfit comprising velvet jodhpurs, pink knitted sweater, rocking horse ballerina shoes and a mini black velvet riding hat is estimated at £300-£500.
Meanwhile, an armour jacket viyella checked shirt, a tartan women's kilt and black suede court shoes is estimated at £400-£600.
As the items from the Westwood collection were not worn or barely worn, estimates are higher than one might normally expect for used clothes. But people looking to capitalise on their old Westwood clothes should not expect too much. "Unfortunately, with the nature of a lot of the Westwood things, the type of person who's buying them would wear them quite hard. So very often, by the time they come to us, they're not in great condition."
According to Vivienne Westwood, there are no stockists of the Westwood clothing in Ireland.
Web: www.christies.com
jmarms@irish-times.ie
