When Thomas Bruce, seventh earl of Elgin, brought his famous marbles home, he probably left all the tedious detail to his servants. Nowadays, not many of us want to bring a fifth-century frieze back from our visit to the Parthenon, but we may want to check in that Moroccan table we just couldn't resist.
A current passion of mine are the vide-grenier sales of northwestern Burgundy's Yonne department, where on summer weekends in the villages around Auxerre, residents place their unwanted household items for sale on tables in the streets. In an atmosphere that is as much carnival as marketplace, one can procure all manner of attic offerings.
So far, taking into account that biggest isn't always best, I've managed to escape lightly with just a few outstanding textiles and baskets, some funky 1950s costume jewellery and a lot of trinkets, old menus and marbles (glass ones, that is) stuffed into an empty rucksack. But when that French country dining-table of my dreams comes my way, I imagine I'll eschew practicality for the thrill of ownership, grit my teeth over expenses incurred and, like Elgin, hasten home smugly with an artefact on the way. Here are some tips for those who venture off the conventional tourist-shopping track and need guidance in getting their purchases home.
Home and garden furniture
Purchasing a large, heavy piece of home or garden furniture eliminates one major decision: you can't take it with you. Choices remain on whether to ship it via a local freight forwarder or an Irish one. Where you are in the world may affect your plan.
In the EU, using a local shipper may be cheaper than engaging an Irish one, and a local outfit that specialises in antiques may make the difference between your walnut dining-table being carefully packed and placed with similar items, or being hastily wrapped and included as "filler" in a container of factory equipment. Freight forwarders are listed in the Yellow Pages in France under the headings transport and demenagemen ts; in Spain under companias de mudanzas or companias de trasporte, and in Italy as transporti internationali. Some wellknown flea markets, such as the one at Clignancourt, north of Paris, abound with local shippers ready to help.
Always get your price quote on a "paid home" basis, that is, inclusive of delivery to your home. An Irish shipper will, through his agents abroad, handle all the details of packing, insuring, transporting, preparing paperwork and, if necessary, clearing the item through customs on this end. This can be very handy if you're dealing with VAT and excise duties. Overland shipping will be cheaper than air freight, but it will be much slower. If you expect to be buying large items abroad, bring the details of a few freight forwarders with you.
Within the EU, there is no VAT or excise duty charged on articles imported for personal use. But beyond Europe, the territory gets sticky. Part 5 of the Customs & Excise Tariff of Ireland, or "bible", as freight forwarders call it, lists, by "commodity code", thousands of items whose rates of excise duty varies widely. For example, a marble garden urn will garner 1.7 per cent duty and 21 per cent VAT; a flat woven woollen rug will attract 7.03 per cent duty and 21 per cent VAT. Worldwide, there is no duty on antiques, but you may have to furnish a certificate of antiquity from the retailer. It's always a good idea to keep a record of your purchases, and to ask the seller for a receipt, even if it is a very simple one.
Two companies who work regularly with overseas shipments are: CAPS Freight Service, 1 Church Lane, Santry, Dublin 9, 01-8424493; and Cronin Moving & Storage, 66 Baldoyle Industrial Estate, Baldoyle, Dublin 13, 01-8391261. Website: www.cronin-movers.ie
For more information, contact The Customs & Excise Information Office, Irish Life Centre, Lr. Abbey Street, Dublin 1. 01-8788811. The Revenue Website is at www.revenue.ie
Art and ornaments
"Look for things that are indigenous, authentic and antique," says Bryan Leech, who with his partner Martin Marley, has travelled extensively in the course of furnishing their Kilgraney House in Bagenalstown, Co Carlow. Over the past 10 years, they have visited the Philippines, Bangladesh, Ghana, Zimbabwe and Bolivia, and it's not uncommon, Leech says, that the new or commercial item he has coveted in Manila turns up in a specialty gift store in Dublin.
It's always wisest to carry art and other fragile items in your carry-on luggage. Seasoned travellers' strategies include, when booking seats, inquiring about the amount and proximity of overhead and closet storage space, and assuring that their items are the last to be loaded into overhead storage bins. If the items must be checked, label them "fragile" and/or "heavy" as appropriate. It's always worth paying the steep excess-baggage fees for a treasured object rather than risk it getting lost in transit as unaccompanied baggage.
Paintings should be rolled rather than stretched flat. Pottery, glassware and ceramics should be stuffed with clothing from your suitcase and carefully padded with bubble wrap fused to a paper backing. Textiles may be wrapped in plastic and cushioned among clothing in a suitcase. Be sure that any wooden item is free from infestation, and have antique textiles, or ones that have been displayed in an open market for a long time, sterilised by either professional dry-cleaning or steam-ironing, on arriving home.
In some countries, exporting antiques requires a special licence on the part of the retailer. Illegally sold goods can be confiscated in Ireland; tourists should check with the consulates of specific countries for more information. Items from legally protected species such as sea-turtle shells, elephant ivory, some animal skins and some types of coral are banned from import. (For more information, contact the National Parks and Wildlife Service at 01-6613111.) Irish laws prohibit the import of offensive weapons, which includes ceremonial swords and knives.
Food and wine
Nothing beats the taste of fresh-pressed olive oil from its source, and the good news is that many producers will have their goods pre-packaged for travelling. Most food items originating within the EU are legally importable, with the following limitations: travellers may bring in one kilo of canned or fully cooked meat and meat products; canned or fully cooked poultry products; milk and milk products, including cheeses. Perishable items should be stored in insulated containers.
From outside the EU, as a rule, plants, bulbs, live or dead animals, poultry and meat products are prohibited. When dealing with "borderline" items such as dried spices, check with the Department of Agriculture, Food and Rural Development at 01-6072916.
As for wine and spirits, 45 litres of wine (of which only 30 can be sparkling), 20 litres of intermediate products (port, sherry, etc.) and 10 litres of spirits - for "personal consumption" - are allowed.
Outside Europe, the legal quantities are two litres, two litres and one litre respectively. Most wine-sellers will package their goods for transport. Experienced buyers recommend transferring larger quantities of vin de table wine from bottles into plastic jugs for convenience. And, they advise buying wine at the end of your journey to avoid temperature changes that may damage wine. Since all liquids will be affected by changes in temperature when flying, remember that seals must be absolutely tight.
Jewellery
Buying jewellery is always risky. If possible, purchase items from a reputable source - ask hotel staff or follow your gut instinct - and stick to small-ticket pieces. Most jewellers in Europe will provide certificates of authenticity on request, theoretically making them liable for their goods' veracity. Jewellery made from legally protected species (see above) is banned from import.
Bicycles, skis and other odd-shaped items
IF you stumble on the perfect used bike or pair of skis at a yard sale, most airlines will provide special cardboard crates and heavy-duty plastic wrapping for them; always inquire before you fly. Allow extra time at check-in for packing and labelling your checked baggage. Odd-shaped checked items will be included in your baggage allowance - usually between 20 and 23 kilos in economy class - but if you exceed your allowance, it is probably wiser to send them on a different flight as unaccompanied baggage, rather than pay overweight charges, which range from £6 to nearly £30 per kilo, depending on where you are flying to. Contact your airline's cargo division for more information.
Above all, bonne chine or happy hunting!
