Khekenny has become replete with craft shops offering goods made by people living in the immediate area. The obvious starting point for a shopper is the Kilkenny Design Centre shop itself on the Parade opposite the entrance to the city's - for it is a city - centrepiece, its castle. This has a generous selection of all the major Irish producers such as Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce pottery, Jerpoint glass and Chesneau leather, plus a large range of clothing for men and women.
Behind Kilkenny Design in the old Castle Yard are a number of individual workshops, most of them selling direct to the public. Ray Power's Castle Arch Pottery, for example, has occupied a studio space for the past six years. He offers a variety of richly glazed samples, with bowls starting at £12 and a new line of vases ranging in price from £36.50 to £100. Next door is Alchemy knitwear, owned incidentally by Ray's fiancee, Liesa O'Keefe, who sells her own scarves only at this outlet, plus a variety of unique hand-knits from £20.
Elsewhere in the Castle Yard are two silversmiths, James Mary Kelly - who also has a shop on the High Street - and Desmond A. Byrne. Among the former's pieces are hammer-set diamond rings in 18-carat gold beginning at £450, while the latter, almost 30 years in the same location, has silver napkin rings at £40 each and silver spirit measures with gold plate insides for £75 and £90 depending on size. Also on the same line of workshops is Shamus Malone, who has large mirrors framed in elm, oak, ash or beech (prices begin around £80) and his own line of pottery decorated with a blue-black cherry motif. A small cream jug costs £3.50, a fruit bowl £22.
Look out too for the Craft Council of Ireland's Crescent Gallery which is crammed with gift items from around the country. Amusing 3-D Christmas cards by Shanna Swords, for example, cost £2.40 each, Liz Byrne's hand-painted coffee cups and saucers are £16.95 each, while one of Judith Knipe's fragile porcelain drinking vessels is yours for £29. Below the castle, Katz on the Parade is a newly-opened store run by Sinead O'Callaghan who used to work in the Kilkenny Design Centre. She is carrying totally different stock to that of her former employers, such as African copper and brass earrings (£9.95) and brooches (£12.95) plus enchanting wooden and leather mobiles on springs which sell for £5.75 to £17.95.
More Irish craft can be found on John's Quay, where Sinead Mullins has been running Stoneware Jackson for the past 18 months. It stocks generous supplies of Stoneware Jackson pottery, of course, as well as other items like cotton and organza cushions by Guru (£15.95), Milano wooden picture frames (from £14.95) and wicker picnic baskets packed with cutlery, crockery and linen, which start at £99. Kilkenny's High Street offers the shopper lots of opportunities, in particular The Gourmet Store which only began trading last month. Owner Padraig Lawlor will make up hampers to suit every pocket and he also stocks wonderful Taylor's of Harrogate coffees, traditional chocolate and fudge made in nearby Bennettsbridge, fresh French breads and home-made jams. Bibliophiles' needs can be met on High Street at Khans Books And Gallery which carries unusual and rare books at bargain prices.
Over on Patrick Street, Yesterdays is an ideal spot for nostalgics. Every surface and wall in the shop is covered with temptation, such as Victorian-style porcelain dolls starting at £32.95, little teddy bears from £7.95, fashionable chenille velvet scarves at £14.95 and blue-and-white Chinese ginger jars costing £24.95. Across the road is German-born jeweller Rudolf Heltzel who has been based in Kilkenny for more than 30 years. Exceptional pieces in stock at the moment include sterling silver cufflinks for £184 and, for those with a generous budget, an 18-carat gold butterfly with engraved tourmaline for wings and a body of spinels and rhodolites; together with a chain, this costs £1,660.
Parking is available outside the castle walls, behind Dunnes Stores, and in the multi-storey car park of the Market Cross Shopping Centre.
Lunchstop: Kilkenny Design Centre Restaurant: ideal for finding a quick bite - and your bearings.
Hinterland Highlight: Bennettsbridge, barely seven miles outside Kilkenny, is home to a wealth of craftworkers who sell directly to the public. Here you will find potters Michael Jackson (of the Stoneware Jackson range) and Nicholas Mosse; opposite the latter is the delightful Mosse's Mill Cafe. Chesneau Leather is made in Bennettsbridge, and its bags and belts can be bought on the premises.
