On a billboard in the centre of Ennis are the words "Ennis and Telecom Eireann - Together we can connect people with information". It overlooks the tall monument which commemorates the election of Daniel O'Connell as MP for Clare in 1828: historical and modern Ennis side by side.
To grow up in Ennis, as I did, is to perfect the art of jay-walking. Its one-way streets are so narrow that you are across them before anyone realises, including yourself. The town is a warren of laneways and alleys, many of which have recently been opened up and now contain all sorts of beguiling shops.
Sean Spellisy owns The Book Gallery on 68 Parnell Street. There are 18,000 secondhand books on his shelves, five of which he has written himself, wearing his local historian hat. The shop might look like a jumble but he knows where everything is and can direct you to your area of interest, whether it's crime, biography, fiction, health, history or any of the many other categories.
Spied were pristine copies of Tom Wolfe's Bonfire Of The Vani- ties for £3; Roddy Doyle's The Van for £3.35; Bruce Chatwin's What Am I Doing Here? for £2.75 and an intriguing little hardback entitled Slams Made Simple (a book about bridge) for 75p. There's a stack of National Geo- graphic near the door at 90p each and hundreds of children's books under the window, all between 50p and £2. "The Mills and Boon are still my bread and butter," Sean confesses happily, waving an arm at a solid back-wall of pink and purple spines. Nights Of Bliss can be yours for just 45p.
When Michael Tierney was a lad, he shook hands with Dev in the back kitchen of Tierney's Bi- cycle and Fishing Shop. For three generations, Tierney's has sold, rented and repaired bikes from its premises at 17 Abbey Street. It still has the ledgers which record all their transactions; recorded among their customers are the old IRA, who rented bikes for sixpence a week.
The back kitchen is now an extension of the shop, containing "the guts of 500 bikes" according to Michael's son. Its cheapest adult bike is £155; average price for a bike is £200. The most expensive one is an extraordinary science-fiction mountain bike in metallic red, with suspension on both wheels; yours for a cool grand. There's also a bike with stabilisers to capture the heart of any small girl; all glittery pink, decorated with pictures of genies and complete with doll's seat on the carrier, for £125.
Tierney's also sells fishing equipment. Rods start at £15 for the lightweight trout ones and go up to £32 for the stronger salmon rods. Tackle boxes - "very popular" - range from £8 to £15. Iridescent as Tiffany jewellery are the Cork-made salmon flies for £3.95.
Bulls would have a field day in Seoidin, 51 O'Connell Street. The shop is crammed with Irish-made pottery. Owner Maureen Harrison stocks mugs, jugs and bowls from Jack O'Patsy, Ballinskelligs, Desert Serges, Michael Kennedy and other ranges. She also has more unusual stock, such as enamel-fired clocks made in Fermanagh, which look like tiny stained-glass windows and are £22.95 each. There are oddly shaped mirrors framed within hollowed-out slices of elm, ash and oak. These lovely mirrors range from £36 to £56 and are made in Banbridge.
Squirreled away under a glass counter is the jewellery. Among the Irish-made pewter necklaces and bracelets are items from Corona Silver, which is based in Louth. These silver rings have simple, classic designs that look as if they're worth far more than their asking price of between £40 and £60.
Also running in Ennis this week is a Christmas Craft Fair highlighting craft items by 21 exhibitors from all over the county. Running until December 19th, it's at the local library on Harmony Row.
"Every kid in Clare is learning music now," says Frances Custy, who owns Custy's Traditional Music Shop at 2 Francis Street. Music lessons are given by Yvonne Casey in the back room of the shop. The sound carries through the door, so you have the unexpected opportunity of hearing the Sharon Shannons and Miko Russells of tomorrow while you browse around.
Clare is famous for its traditional music and Custy's claim to stock the entire canon of Irish trad music, whether it's on tape, CD or in printed form - "and we can always order the more obscure or rare recordings". All their fiddles are old, ranging in age from 50 to 150 years and from £200 to £900 in price. Bodhrans go to £145. But there are Doolin tin whistles for only £2.50 and humble triangles for £6.
Custy's is one of the few outlets in Ireland specialising in concertinas. "They're awful money," Frances explains. She takes out the beauty of her collection - price £2,400 - and starts playing a tune on the gold-tooled, black leather concertina. It's impossible to stop my feet tapping.
Parking: (Pay): Wood Quay, Abbey Street, the Friary, Templegate, Upper and Lower Market Street. (Free to customers): Dunnes Stores, Quinnsworth.
Lunchstop: The Food Empo- rium, 8-9 Francis Street; Henry's, Barrack Street. Both of these are also fantastic delis.
Hinterland highlight: Head for Bunratty, just 14 miles from the town. Here you'll find not just the shop attached to the castle but also Avoca Handweavers and McGlynn's antiques just to mention a few.
