Adrift
Dunmore House Hotel, Dunmore, Clonakilty, Co Cork; 023-8833352, dunmorehousehotel.ie
The Barrett family of Dunmore House Hotel know more than a thing or two about hospitality. Over the years, they have consistently developed and improved their little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay. Under head chef Manuel Canapini, Adrift has become a contender for the country’s top seafood spots – trawler to table. Joanne Cronin
Aniar
53 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-535947, aniarrestaurant.ie
It was all change last year at Aniar when owner JP McMahon commissioned architect Aidan Conway to create a new interior for this iconic Galway restaurant. Out went the lighter greens and neutral tones, making way for a darkened interior with dramatic focused lighting. It makes sense though, acting as a focus for McMahon’s dishes which have evolved into an intense, almost primal, expression of the west of Ireland. JC
Baba’de
The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112, babade.ie
Baba’de may be the little sibling to Michelin-starred Dede, but this charming little spot is standing firmly on its own two feet. Under chef Muslim Karafil, savour fragrant delights such as charcoal grilled chicken thighs with hazelnut satay sauce, spiced crispy chicken with brown butter dip, or a whole west Cork blue lobster with pil pil potato mousseline. Or come for Turkish-influenced brunch on weekends. JC
Ballyfin Demesne
Ballyfin, Co Laois; 057-8755866, ballyfin.com
At Ballyfin – a hotel so exclusive it barely seems real – Richard Picard-Edwards has delivered the final flourish: a Michelin star for the diningroom. The €145 eight-course tasting menu is on the familiar side of grandeur, with a thrillingly good Jerusalem artichoke cream topped with chicken jelly and gold leaf, and dishes featuring lobster and caviar. Broths, purées and reductions bring depth without being overwrought. Non-residents can book, but getting a table feels about as casual as applying for citizenship. Read our full review here. Corinna Hardgrave
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Bramley
10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, bramleyabbeyleix.com
Sam and Emily Moody’s fine-dining spot in Abbeyleix turns out sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree – Sam cooked at Ballyfin and Bath Priory – and produce from their own walled garden. The lunch menu and midweek Supper at Six are great value, but it’s at dinner that the kitchen really hits its stride, with a la carte and tasting menus (€80) delivering dishes like seared scallops, honey-glazed quail with leek emulsion, pan-fried wild halibut with mussels, and slow-roast organic duck. Read our full review here. CH
George V at Ashford Castle
Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo; 094-9546003, ashfordcastle.com
The dark wood panelling of Ashford Castle’s George V diningroom might scream old-school but under executive head chef Liam Finnegan the food has taken a fresher turn. French-rooted, yes, but lighter, with sauces built on serious stocks rather than just butter and cream. Much of the produce now comes from a new two-acre kitchen garden, run by head gardener Alex Lavarde using no-dig methods and supplying everything from beets to honey. The twice-baked Hegarty’s cheese soufflé is a must; the wine cellar, as always, is formidable. CH
Homestead Cottage
Lough North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, homesteadcottagedoolin.com
It’s not every day a stone-walled cottage on the wild west coast lands a Michelin star, but Robbie McCauley’s precise cooking makes it feel inevitable. Along with his wife Sophie, he has transformed this former cafe into something rooted in tradition but unmistakably modern, serving a nine-course dinner (€125) and six-course lunch (€85). McCauley works tightly with local producers, using Burren outwintered beef, and lobster and crab from Michael O’Connell, they raise their own chickens and have an impressive vegetable garden. There’s even a small terrace for pre-dinner drinks – if the weather behaves. Read our full review here. CH
Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare
Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry; 064-6641200, parkkenmare.com/dining/landline
When Bryan Meehan – the Irish entrepreneur behind Blue Bottle Coffee – bought The Park Hotel from the Brennan brothers last year, two things changed in the diningroom. The tasting menu was dropped in favour of a focused a la carte, and Meehan hung two Sean Scully paintings – one of which gives the room its name, The Landline. Local chef James O’Sullivan keeps things classic but special with seared scallops, Kerry Hill lamb, and pan-seared sole. Non-residents can book. CH
Liath
Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, liathrestaurant.com
One of Dublin’s smallest restaurants and one of its mightiest, Liath is an intimate space where food is staged as art. Damien Grey and team perform manoeuvres with grace through service in the fully open kitchen, allowing guests to see the artists at work. Grey is looking to move to a larger space, so make sure to get a booking at Blackrock market before they leave. JC
Lir
The Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry; +44 78-28127739, lirseafood.com
Chef Stevie McCarry recently won the Northern Ireland final of the Great British Menu, a well-earned accolade for this self-taught chef. With wife Rebekah, he has developed Lir into a truly exciting seafood restaurant. The Japanese konro grill is put to good use in the kitchen which turns out cod collar schnitzel, ling kofta with burnt apple sauce and smoked dogfish corndog. Look out for the upcoming summer music nights on the terrace. Read our full review here. JC
Paradiso
16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939, paradiso.restaurant
After more than 30 years in business, Denis Cotter is planning his transition away from his legendary fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. Long-term restaurant manager Dave O’Mahony is in line to take over, with head chef Miguel Frutos continuing to lead the kitchen into the future. With produce grown in a unique partnership with Gort na Náin farm and a super natural wine menu, Paradiso continues to set the standard. Read our full review here. JC
Rare
3-4 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork; 021-4772209, rare1784.ie
There isn’t another restaurant quite like Rare. Drawing on his classical French training, chef Meeran Manzoor has invented a cuisine that is all his own, using the best of local produce accented with flavours from his home city of Chennai. His menu descriptions may sound simple but they belie a complexity of spice and nuanced technique that is simply delightful. JC
Restaurant Chestnut
The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie
Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming’s Michelin-starred Chestnut offers three routes – a €55 two-course prix fixe, a four-course for €75 or the full €120 tasting menu. Ingredients are local and fiercely seasonal – Lisheen Greens, Twomey’s butchers, Union Hall fish – with much of it cooked over a custom wood-fired grill. Expect wild halibut with mussels or aged Skeaghanore duck with coal onion and sour cherries. His food is exacting, mature and restrained – one of the country’s top chefs. CH
The Dining Room at Gregan’s Castle
Gregan’s Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; 065-7077005, gregans.ie
Sitting in a little glen outside Ballyvaughan, Gregans Castle is the quirky but extremely stylish countryside hotel of dreams. Chef Jonathan Farrell moved from Dublin to take over the kitchens and is producing food perfectly harmonised with the stunning landscapes. Choose from dishes such as wild garlic spaetzle, Atlantic scallop with XO, butter-poached cod, roast rack of Burren lamb or forced rhubarb direct from the hotel garden. Read our full review here. JC
The Olde Glen
Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777, oldeglen.ie
The Olde Glen bar would have a serious chance in any “Ireland’s most traditional pub” competition, and is worth a visit in its own right. But it’s the cooking of Ciaran Sweeney to the rear of the pub that brings the punters in night after night. The menu is packed with local produce including roast Mulroy Bay scallops, fermented potato bread with Gortahork cabbage and glazed Killybegs cod. JC
The Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch Castle
Recess, Connemara, Co Galway; 095-31006, ballynahinchcastle.com
Former Michelin star chef Danni Barry keeps things razor sharp at the Owenmore Restaurant, with a four-course table d’hote menu (€95) that lets the ingredients do the talking. Kilkeel scallops with caramelised kohlrabi, line-caught mackerel with blood orange and horseradish, barbecued quail with soy and honey, and wild sea bass with salt-baked celeriac are cooked with precision. Bookings are available for non-residents. CH
