Tell us about The Edit: Essentially it is a collection of useful things for your wardrobe. In my opinion we have too many clothes and it is about paring back because I think this is what people want. I wanted to do something close to my heart and there's logic behind it like offering good quality white T-shirts, for example, that are not see-through.
So what are the essentials? A really good coat, a crisp white shirt, knitwear, boiled wool in useful shapes – most people like me want something they can throw on and not think about.
How does it compare to others? I see this being closer to Cos, but with more structure. Their collections are more oversized, but I have more shape in my tailoring. Where their white shirts are oversized, mine are more fitted. There are also elements of Zara but I see it as being more Swedish in essence – in New York I saw a few ranges like Vince that I like.
Explain the styles: We have 70 in all and we are strong on knitwear. There's a small amount of cashmere – like a black sweater with a blue polo neck and there is a grey/black knit with a waterfall collar. There are knits with georgette trim and button back and angora knits in black and grey with oversize camel cardigans. There's a lot of choice.
There's very little pattern: That is deliberate because it is less about pattern and more about paring back to colours like charcoal, grey, camel and black as well as monochrome and neutral colours like oyster. There'll be more colour and pattern for spring.
It seems very sombre: It's sombre because it's about useful everyday pieces that can be dressed up or down like a leather jacket that could have a longer life worn over a spring dress. In New York a lot of ranges are pared back, very black, navy and white and I think that's what you want when you go shopping. You can then put on top dressings.
What about dresses and tailoring? Tailoring is a strong part but not the whole. There's a double-breasted jacket with pants for work and a navy trouser suit with stretch and two styles of trousers. We have about a dozen dress styles and those at €69 in stretch come in black, navy and burgundy – the burgundy has become a bestseller. There's also a black and navy stripe dress and a skirt in similar fabrics.
Describe the coats: Our selection includes a statement piece in black with quilting along with wrap styles in grey and camel, a mannish military style and a trench. We have long and short quilted coats at €109 and €89.
So it's a big collection? We have 70 styles in all going in over the next 4-6 weeks, so there are only limited parts of it currently on sale. Our prices are reasonable for the quality you are getting and a lot of the knitwear is made in Italy. So far dresses have flown out along with the red boiled-wool coat, the Aran knit and white shirts at €59.
What else do you do as creative director? I work with brands like Savida and Gallery and we are getting new customers for our new brand Willow (for children). We will be developing new collections, one for the over 65s who want longer sleeves, longer skirts, higher necks and different fits.
So fashion is age related? Lots of people in their 80s are fabulous and would wear a younger brand beautifully. But there is also the lady of 75 who doesn't know where to shop or what to buy. But if we didn't design with a specific age and person in mind, we would end up with confusion. In your head you need to know the lifestyle and you have to design for that. That's the only reason I put an age on it. I have had The Edit on my mind for a long time because it is really about what I like. We want less stuff, but the right stuff. I would like to have a great pair of jeans, cargo pants, key items and do the best I can but for a really good price.
In conversation with Deirdre McQuillan
