Phyl Clarke on how to achieve classic red lips.
What have Snow White, Marilyn Monroe and Paloma Picasso got in common?
It comes in an innocent-looking tube that you can carry everywhere, makes your skin glow and your eyes light up, and can take years off your appearance without your having to resort to the gruesome knife. It's good old classic red lipstick, and, like all classics, it waits quietly in the background until it is coaxed back into the limelight and named the colour of the season.
I don't blame you for wanting to turn the page. The red lip is a definitely a statement. The public admission that you are, indeed, wearing a cosmetic. But of course you are fooling the whole world every day into thinking that you have perfectly even skin, naturally long and defined lashes, a hint of youthful blush and a just-licked-your-lips shine. It's all make-up.
The new red requires an understated look on the rest of the face - that is, natural-finish foundation and blush. Remember to keep the finish dewy, as a matte powdery finish will look old-fashioned with your new lips. Play down eyes with soft natural beiges and vanilla shades. Go for a natural, lash-extending mascara, nothing that has "lash building" or "thickening" written on the box, or you will be veering towards a lady-of-the-night look.
So the canvas is ready for the final flourish: colour. I won't pretend it's easy to buy the right shade of red, but enlist the help of the trained consultants at your favourite counter. Be brave: the chicest shades can look scary in the tube. Generally speaking, the pink-toned complexion needs a red with a blue base, and more olive skin needs an orange-based red. If you shy away from the full-on red mouth, you can buy a red stain such as Nars Gypsy, a suits-all colour that can go from a hint of red to a strong statement.
A lip liner will give a more defined finish to your look, but please, not in red. Instead go for a neutral, such as the ever-popular Spice from MAC, or be guided by your favourite adviser. Application is crucial here: you need a lip brush to give you the clean line vital for this look.
After liner, apply colour as follows: don't try to "draw" shape of lips around edge with your brush; instead fill in colour from the middle of the lip and work out to the liner - this is far less intimidating, and you will be less likely to get the wobbles if you rest your ring finger on your chin. Blot your lips, pressing the tissue well.
I often like the "blotted back" look. It's a great way to wear the shade without looking too va-va-voom. Leave as is, or add a slick of Vaseline. If you are graduating to the next stage, repeat application with a brush and, hey, you are the modern, sophisticated woman you always knew you were inside. And someday your prince will come.
THE GOODS
Chanel Rouge Absolu in Passion, €25 The real thing. A classic, suits-all red. Nars Trans Europe Express, €25 Bestseller that suits the Irish skin tone. MAC Dubonnet, €17.50 Lovely burnt-red shade