Chicken is a versatile meat, but it's vital to buy organic, writes Hugo Arnold
The roast chicken arrived in a battered-looking cast iron and enamel skillet.Displayed momentarily, it was then whisked to a side table. The breast was neatly carved and served with a jug of the cooking juices. The legs disappeared as we tucked into a sublime pile of hand-cut chips and our succulent breast meat. The legs and thighs reappeared and later we tucked into this darker, richer meat. Is there a dinner more satisfying than straightforward roast chicken? Not when it is done to this standard and served on a warm summer's day in Paris. The restaurant is called L'Ami Louis, for anyone tempted to pay a visit.
The success of this meal depends fundamentally on the quality of the chicken. "Is this one of those chickens?" my mother inquired the other day, tucking into an organic bird. Indeed it was, and as we sucked bones and attacked the end of the carcass, I was reminded yet again what a feast this humble bird makes. I will happily tuck into an unadorned bird, but I also enjoy one laced with herbs. Tarragon is the classic accompaniment. Rosemary makes for a more robust combination, but is equally delicious.
Chicken is popular in the Middle East and recipes from there seem to juggle the herb-spice balance. Provided your chicken is a real one, the meat suits everything from creamy coconut and almond-laced dishes to the more punchy spice-led northern ones. Introduce noodles and you are in for a gamut of broth-led treats: chicken poached in a liquor laced with soy, sake and mirin; tossed with noodles, beansprouts, chilli oil and sesame seeds; and an all-time favourite, seasonal greens poached in a gentle soy-based broth heady with prawn, crab stick and chicken.