Mary Dowey's wines of the week
Bourgogne Les Manants Côtes d'Auxerre, Jean-Marc Brocard 2002.
Brocard is one of my favourite Chablis producers. There's nothing lean or mean about his wines, even though affordable Chablis can often be bitterly austere. Now up he pops, in Dunnes Stores, with a classic combination of luscious, honeyed fruit and citrussy bite from an area next door. And the price is as tempting as the wine. Salmon hot or cold, with sauce or without. . . this will suit them all. From Dunnes Stores selected outlets, €10.99
Chinon Les Granges, Bernard Baudry 2002.
This juicy, thirst-building wine from a top Chinon producer will suit anybody on the lookout for a light, elegant red to go with salmon. Its delicious hints of blackberry and gentle spice are subtle enough not to swamp the fish, and there's a mineral undertow to the peppery finish for added complexity. Terrific summer drinking. From Cabot & Co, IFSC (now offering delivery service, 6.50 per case); On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabots, Westport, about €12.99.