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TOTAL TURKEY: Some novel recipes for Christmas - and the days that follow

TOTAL TURKEY:Some novel recipes for Christmas - and the days that follow

Sheer numbers to feed, and tradition, make a turkey the most popular Christmas main course, but there are other occasions when we should consider eating turkey, and when we're not obliged to have the traditional trimmings with it.

If you want real flavour in your bird, look for breeds such as Bronzes and Blacks. A well-bred bird has been raised to live well and eat well, so that you dine well. Watch out with the Bronzes however; some are bronze in name more than in flavour.

As with most livestock, what turkeys are fed and how they are treated matters a great deal. A small producer is much more likely to ensure the birds get a realistic growing period, a good diet and husbandry, and outdoor access.

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Good turkey has a faint gamey flavour, which makes it suitable for robust treatment. Consider removing the bird's legs and braising them separately. Boned out, they can be stuffed, which adds a great deal to this more succulent part of the bird, and braising suits the cut better. The breasts can be roasted, with thyme, rosemary and garlic, or cut into smaller pieces and treated like veal (breaded and fried), or cut smaller still and stir-fried.