Break out and drink something different with your Christmas lunch or dinner, writes John Wilson
WE TEND TO drink wines made from a very narrow selection of grape varieties. Look through the shelves of any supermarket and a dozen varieties will cover most of the wines on display. In the past, we looked to regional names to provide reassurance; nowadays we look for our favourite grape.
Variety does make a big difference. It is the critical factor in determining how a wine will taste. Jancis Robinson, in her excellent book, Vines, Grapes Wines, lists more than 1,000 grape varieties, all currently being grown somewhere around the globe.
In recent years, there has been a resurgence in wines made from unfamiliar grapes. Some are spectacularly good. The four wines below are all made from lesser-known varieties, and come from off the beaten track. If you have tired of the traditional Christmas and the accompanying wines, these will provide you with the perfect opportunity to experiment.
WINE
Schloss Gobelsberg Grüner Veltliner Steinberg 2006 Langenlois, Austria, 12.5%, €19.95Try saying that after a few glasses! The wine is lightly spritzy, with a rich, but light palate of canteloup melon and ginger. Delicious, different, and certain to please everyone, from the Sauvignon drinker to the wine anorak. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh; Wicklow Wine Co; 64 Wine, Sandycove; Donnybrook Fair; Probus Wines, Oughterard.
Monte del Frà Bianco di Custoza Superiore, Cru Cà del Magro 2006, Italy, 12%, €12.95Made primarily from Garganega, the grape variety used to make Soave, this is a delightful, medium-bodied, lightly textured wine with plenty of creamy peaches and pears. Perfect on its own or with smoked salmon, or Domini Kemp's onion tart. Stockist: Berry Brothers Rudd, Dublin 2.
Herdade de Grous, IGT Alentejano, Portugal 2006, 14%, €17.99 This is part of a new, ambitious winery in the Alentejo. Using a blend of local and international grapes, the property has fashioned a hedonist's delight. This soft, low-acid red has lush dark fruits, notes of clove and cinnamon, and a silky smooth finish. It certainly got full marks from my household. Try it with your turkey, or any other red or white meat. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; Fallon Byrne; The Corkscrew, Chatham St; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock: Mitchells, Rathfarnham; Morton's, Ranelagh; Cheers, Delgany; Cheers, Ballinteer; Fresh Stores; Power and Smullen, Lucan; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; D Six, Harold's Cross.
Benanti Lamoremio 2002, IGT Siciliana, 14%, €35Giuseppe Benanti makes an amazing range of very individual wines from ancient vineyards on the volcanic soils of Mount Etna. This beauty is made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d'Avola and Nero Mascalese, a local grape I had never encountered before. Delicious, wild, slightly earthy full-throttle dark fruits; ripe but untamed, and really a thrill to drink. Excellent length and real class in a very different wine. Stockists: Holland's, Bray; Martin's, Fairview; Donnybrook Fair; Silver Granite, Palmerstown; Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Avenue; McHugh's, Kilbarrack; Silverspoon, Castleknock; The Foodhall, Portlaoise; Morton's of Galway.
PORT
Something approaching 80 per cent of all Port consumption in Ireland occurs in December. This is a pity in some ways, as Port is far more versatile, but there is no doubt that a glass of warming Port is an essential part of Christmas for many people. In our house, we begin the festivities by decorating the tree, and then relax with a glass of Port and a mince pie.
Churchill's Late Bottled Vintage 1999, 20%, €22.99Founded by one of the Graham family, Churchill's deserves to be far better-known. The house style is for well-built wines, with plenty of firm dark fruit, that are not too sweet. The Vintage Character at €17.99 is also excellent, and available in Londis, Gala and leading independents. The very keenly-priced LBV is even better, a delicious, maturing Port, packed with dark loganberries and plums and a fantastic, slightly tannic finish. Stockists: Kelly's, Malahide; Next Door, Georges Quay, Cork; Octavius, Sligo; 1601 Off Licence, Kinsale.
Niepoort Colheita Port 1998, 20%, €34.95Most tawny Port is a blend of several vintages. A Colheita is a single vintage tawny Port that has been aged in cask for many years. The resulting wine has more developed nutty flavours than a vintage Port, and does not require decanting.
This example has delicious soft easy sweet plums, grilled nuts and caramel.
You could serve it very lightly chilled with Christmas pud, but it goes very well with other desserts too, as well as hard cheeses such as Cheddar and Manchego. Stockists: Gibney's, Malahide; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Wicklow Wine Co; Red Island Wine, Skerries.