Innovation - and oysters - are top of the menu at Frank's, writes Tom Doorley
Until a couple of months ago I had spent my adult life being attracted to and, simultaneously, repelled by oysters. My conversion occurred as I sat with some friends at the harbourside in Sydney and I had one of those all too rare what-the-hell moments. In a flash, I had anointed an oyster with a few drops of shallot vinegar, popped it in my mouth and chased it with a slurp of Grosset Polish Hill Riesling. There was no going back.
I had to go back, of course, to Ireland where oysters and Riesling are rather less common and a lot more expensive. It was quite a pleasure then, to pick up the menu at Frank's and find that oysters, by the dozen or the half-dozen, are a big feature. And, still on the nursery slopes of oyster consumption, I contented myself with a mere six. Now, I'm no oyster expert, but these were fresh and plump and they did what I expect oysters to do: deliver that tang of the sea.
Frank's appears to be one of those rare things, an innovative restaurant in Ireland. Perhaps it's not surprising as it is brought to us by the same duo who sprang Elephant & Castle upon the people of Dublin in 1989.
Frank's would be more at home in Sydney or San Francisco than in our capital. Isn't it remarkable that it has taken so long to import a few simple ideas from those parts of the world? Perhaps it's because Dublin restaurants find it too easy to make money. And perhaps the reason why Frank's breaks the mould is because its location, under a railway arch near the old Cats and Dogs Home at Grand Canal Quay, means that it has to work harder to get attention.
On this occasion, my oysters were chased down with a glass of Prosecco, mildly sparkling and just the faintest touch off-dry. Frank's has the gumption to offer this Italian fizz, which enjoys lighter tax than a full-blown sparkler, for a mere fiver. Now, I'm no oyster expert, but these were fresh and plump and they did what I expect oysters to do: deliver that tang of the sea.
Our other starter, potted shrimps, packed tightly and generously beneath a layer of solid clarified butter, is not something you see every day. And they were rich, sweet, utterly delicious in their simplicity, served with lemon in muslin (nice touch) and a slice of Poilâne toast. Presumably this comes from the fabulously expensive Parisian bakery; and it was fine, but I would just as readily have brown soda bread.
Grilled Dublin Bay prawns, marinated with lemon and a touch of cumin, served in the shell, were a triumph and made the Balmain mudbugs that I ate in Sydney seem, curiously enough, rather ordinary. We do have the best seafood in the world, even if too many restaurants go out of their way to screw it up.
A fillet steak was exactly as ordered: nicely crusty on the outside and perfectly moist and rare within. The flavour was reasonably good, but was dominated by the accompaniment. This comprised very finely sliced shallots which had been slowly melted and then deglazed with vinegar to produce a sweet and sour mush that was pretty unattractive in itself and swamped the meat.
Raspberry sorbet (you pay by the scoop, which strikes me as an eminently sensible scheme) was jumping with flavour, nicely sharp and appropriately soft-pedal on sweetness. Affogato - three scoops of vanilla ice cream over which a searingly strong espresso coffee had been poured - was ace. This was the first time I have seen this brilliantly simple stand-by dessert of the chattering classes make it into an Irish restaurant.
The wine list is a rare pleasure, having been chosen with obvious knowledge and enthusiasm, from generally small producers. Our bottle of Domaine de Terre Mégère Merlot from the Pays d'Oc was predictably yummy and very hot on value at €21.75. Two Proseccos and one coffee brought the bill to €101.40, making it one of the best value meals I have eaten in Dublin for a very long time.
Frank's, Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2 (01-6625870)