ROVING WRITERS: 'The fly is up', and all over Ireland people are leaving their jobs and responsibilities behind them to go dapping with dibblers. Muiris Houston takes to Lough Corrib, a paradise for anglers and for their non-fishing partners.
It has been a frustrating day. Despite a plentiful fly-hatch, and evidence of feeding trout, only two fish have expressed direct interest in our artificial offerings. Suddenly, a flash of gold ahead of the boat coincides with a straightening of my line. The trout bores deep at first. Then, without warning, it takes off on a searing run to the right of the boat, the spray lifting from the flyline. The run ends with an acrobatic jump in the air, as the brown trout tries to shake the hook from its mouth.
Welcome to Lough Corrib in May. Europe's premier natural brown trout fishery is at its best in late spring and early summer, a period coinciding with the hatch of the upwinged family of flies: the olives and mayflies. The mayfly is a large-winged fly that provides much joy to man and fish. Large brown trout appear from the depths to feed on the graceful creatures as they hatch and float along in the wind.
In response, anglers leave jobs and responsibilities behind once the word is out that "the fly is up". Some lucky ones spend the next three weeks in a frenzy of angling that is matched only by the feeding frenzy of trout in the lake itself.
My companion and gillie, or guide, for the day is Roy Peirce of Grasshopper Angling. Once the battle is over and the fish has tired, Roy expertly nets it, before we engage in a guestimate of the trout's weight. Roy's vast experience ensures that we fly fish only the best angling spots in the prevailing weather conditions. A veteran of the lake for more than 20 years, in his company you learn about the seasonal habits of the brown trout as well as a smattering of entomology, so that your confidence in your ability to connect with one of the lake's better-sized trout is significantly bolstered.
With his wife, Sorcha, Roy runs the delightful Grasshopper Cottage, situated just 50 metres from the water's edge. The cottage has en-suite bedrooms, and all rooms are centrally heated with open turf fires in both dining room and lounge. Meals are homecooked and packed lunches are available for the day's fishing.
Despite being labelled by a famous angler as a "melancholy pursuit", the art of "dapping" is synonymous with mayfly time. Although we cast with traditional fly rods and artificial flies, an alternative would be to use a long 15-foot rod, kitted out with a line of silk-like floss at the end of which is a hook baited with two natural mayfly. The purpose of the special line and long rod is to allow the angler to control the wind-blown flies as they "dibble" along the surface in front of a floating boat.
The magic of dapping is that you actually see the trout come up for the fly: the angler must resist responding for five to 10 seconds. In fact the trout will have disappeared - a novice might think he had gone for good - before a firm raising of the rod tip brings you in contact with 2 lbs or more of fighting fish.
For the non-angler, dapping is actually a great introduction to fishing for trout. This style of fishing has the potential to disarm even the most piscatorially cynical companion. But for those who find themselves in the area courtesy of a partner's fishing enthusiasm, but wish to plough their own furrow, there are plenty of alternative activities. Ashford Castle in Cong has both an equestrian centre and a falconry, while at Lisloughrey Quay, a sightseeing boat trip is available with Corrib Cruises.
The area between Corr-na-Móna and Cong is a walker's paradise. The old track from Corr-na-Móna to Clonbur is being revamped by FÁS and affords the walker spectacular views across the lake all the way down to Galway. The forest surrounding Ashford Castle and the romantic chalet at Ardilaun offer gentle walks around the lake, with scenic picnic areas for al-fresco dining. It's a good area for cycling, with a mixture of hill and flat terrain. Many painters come here using the surrounding mountains and lakes for inspiration. And there is a little known "mini-Burren" in the vicinity with a collection of wild flowers.
At the end of a blustery but very enjoyable day on the lake (and happily carrying a beautifully spotted 2 lb brown trout), we make our way to our lodgings for the night.
Ballywarren House is situated in farming countryside a few minutes from Cong village. It has been developed to reflect the charm and character of a late 18th-century country Georgian house, with open fires, oak staircase and galleried landing. It cleverly combines Irish and English tastes with overtones of France. Extra touches of luxury can be found throughout the house, with dishes of chocolates, glossy magazines and even a decanter of sherry supplied in the bedrooms.
As we are chilled to the bone, the log fire is a welcome sight. Dinner, prepared by Diane Skelton, and served by her husband, David, is a superb mix of Irish and French cuisine, cooked "country style". We tuck into fresh Donegal crab salad, followed by an aromatic French, corn fed, guinea fowl with lentils and vegetables as a main course - just what's needed after the day on the lake. Dessert, coffee and chocolates follow before we retire to bed for the night.
The next day we are tempted into a small café in the village, called the Hungry Monk. Run by Susan and Robert Devereux, it serves a wide range of dishes, from locally smoked salmon salad to a more adventurous chicken and apple salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing. It is hard to resist the smell of coffee and freshly baked deserts as we finish our walk around the grounds of Cong Abbey. Our salads are followed by a delicious offering of rhubarb and apple crumble, although we decline the cream! The bill is a very reasonable €25.
For those keen to maximise the angling experience, Grasshopper Cottage is a good place to aim for. Non-fishing tourists will find plenty to do in the Joyce Country between Loughs Mask and Corrib. But there is no doubt that the key to the area is the superb water quality of the lakes; something that must be protected and preserved as a key national asset. Wherever you stay and whatever your interests, this beautiful location on the edge of Connemara will not disappoint.
ANGLERS' RESTS
To arrange accommodation or fishing contact Roy or Sorcha Peirce at Grasshopper Angling, Dubhros, Corr-na-Móna, Co Galway (094-9548165, grasshopper@indigo.ie, www.troutfishingireland.com). B&B €27.50-€32 pps sharing. Dinner €26 pp. Hire of boat, engine and gillie €110-€120 per day, plus gillie's lunch. Tom "Doc" Sullivan is secretary of Corr-na-Móna Angling Club. He is a qualified fly-casting instructor and a gillie (094-9548463). Ballywarren House (094-9546989, ballywarrenhouse@eircom.net, www.ballywarrenhouse.com) has rooms for €124-€136, and dinner, €38 per person.
The Hungry Monk, Cong (094-9546866, info@cong-ireland.com). Ashford Equestrian Centre: 094-9546024. Ashford Falconry: 094-9546820. Corrib Cruises: 094-9546029. The village of Clonbur offers good food at Tí Bhúrca Restaurant (094-9546175) and food and accommodation at Fairhill House Hotel (094-9546176). For a weekly angling report, see www.wrfb.ie.