Hay is for horses, unless you’re a chef working in Aniar. Then it’s for celeriac, or for smoking beef heart or chicken. Of all the weird and wonderful things we do in the restaurant, baking celeriac in hay is one of my favourite. We even make a broth from the skins of the celeriac and the toasted hay.
Did you know Russian peasants used to drink hay tea? I wonder did we drink it in Ireland? My nana’s friend from Bray used to drink boiled water, so perhaps someone might have at some time added a little toasted hay for a few tannic notes. Try it next time you’re having a cup of tea. A wee sprinkle of hay goes a long way.
Baking celeriac in hay might raise a few eyebrows in your family, but I guarantee they will love it. A casserole dish with a lid is useful, but often I just wrap it in tinfoil.
Place a handful of hay on the bottom of the casserole dish and then place the celeriac on top of the hay. Place another handful of hay over the celeriac and then cover with the lid. Bake in an oven at 180 degrees for one hour, or until the celeriac is tender. You can check if it’s done by inserting a knife into it; your knife should pass easily to the centre if it’s cooked.
Remove the celeriac from the pot and cut off the outer peel. Place this peel back in the pot (with the hay) and cover with water. Simmer for an hour and then strain. I like to reduce it by half (by simmering it) for additional flavour, or add some dried seaweed and mushrooms.
Carve the celeriac into eight and dress with a little oil. Roast in the oven until nicely brown. If you have a blowtorch, it’s fun to char the pieces with it. Place the charred celeriac into the hay broth. This can be a dish in its own right but it goes well with most meats and fish.
