Culinaria: the architecture of dill

Potatoes and white fish are perfect matches for this punchy herb

Aromas of aniseed and lemon: dill has a sweet and sour quality
Aromas of aniseed and lemon: dill has a sweet and sour quality

The herb dill derives its name from the Norse word dilla, which means to lull. Yet, the punchy quality of this little green weed is hardly going to send you asleep, let alone leave your palate to contemplate the other ingredients that it is often paired with.

Potatoes and white fish are perfect matches for dill, but do we ever consider why dill enhances these two stalwarts of Irish cuisine?

I think the answer resides in the subtle sweet and sour quality that dill transmits to that which with it is paired.

Consider the sweet, delicate flesh of a turbot or a John Dory: dill, with its aromas of aniseed and lemon, lifts it to another realm.

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In terms of potatoes, I feel the herb also adds balance with its slightly sour notes. A new potato salad dressed with homemade sour cream is crying out for dill.

Combine the aforementioned three ingredients of white fish, dill and potato and you have an excellent summer lunch or dinner, perfect with a beautiful Spanish rosé. As well as its taste, I love the architecture of dill. I like the way it seems to float over the plate: its nervy tendrils reaching out to inject flavour into whatever it may touch.

For experimental cooks, dill pairs wonderfully with burnt cucumber. You may ask why we burn cucumber, but properly burnt food tastes wonderful (as opposed to badly burnt food).

Halve your cucumbers and place them directly onto a hot pan or a griddle until the bottom surface is black. When they’re nicely charred, remove and place the charred side face down into a mild vinegar. I recently discovered a bonito (tuna) vinegar that works really well with the crisp and gentle bitterness of the cucumber. When you’re ready to eat, slice up the cucumber and serve with cooked mussels (without their shell) and a generous amount of dill. I think an oyster would work wonders in there as well.