Christmas Dinner. The most anticipated dinner of the year, not just this year, but every year. That’s right. Every single year. And if it’s not to start feeling like an unwelcome obstacle that the cook(s) must simply limp over every year, it’s well worth swapping the turkey/ham/pudding formula for something else occasionally. Assuming, that is, that a riot of protest won’t ensue.
I’m not knocking turkey and ham – I love it as much as anyone – but I do enjoy the challenge of exploring other options that at least stand a chance of competing against this classic pairing of bird and beast.
But what if you want to steer clear of birds of all feathers – including goose and duck – and if pork, too, is off the table?
Luckily, being in Ireland, we have some of the best beef in the world on our doorstep. Grass-fed for the most part, Irish beef is second to none – succulent, tender and, if hung for long enough, positively dripping with flavour.
I like it pink, but I do understand that’s not for everyone, so it’s good to use a cut that gives you all options, from pink to well done. And if it’s for Christmas, your chosen joint needs to be appropriately grand – something you wouldn’t have that often; a real treat.
So for this year’s Christmas dinner, I have opted for Rib of Beef (note the capital letters). This is so good it needs nothing except a bit of seasoning, a few herbs and a good rest before it’s sliced and served with an unusual but delicious dauphinoise of celeriac dotted with chopped prunes and butter. Sitting alongside it is sautéed radicchio – a slightly bitter counterpoint to the sweet flesh of the beef. By all means, if you’d miss them, serve some roast potatoes too.
And to finish off the feast? Well, this chocolate truffle cake has it all: indecent quantities of chocolate, butter and sugar and, to make it really Christmassy, chestnuts and brandy.
The mixture is pureed before being baked to just-quaking point and then chilled (preferably overnight), until it’s dense and fudgy. Serve with redcurrants and cream.
No-one will ever want Christmas pudding again. Well, maybe just this year.
dkemp@irishtimes.com
Food cooked and styled by Domini Kemp and Gillian Fallon
