After a perfect lunch a couple of years ago I was lucky enough to spend a little time with the Roca brothers in the kitchen of El Celler de Can Roca, which at that time had just landed the number one slot on the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best list. Of the three brothers, Josep, who has the best English, was dropping in and out of the conversation while minding his smitten departing customers and I was struggling with my non-existent Spanish with Joan, while Jordi, Can Roca’s mad genius pastry chef was making moulds of his nose against the backdrop of a framed and signed Lionel Messi jersey. As you do.
I asked Joan what it was like becoming number one. He was thrilled, huge honour, we do what we do. The stuff you like to hear from magnanimous chefs, while understanding they aren’t touching on any level of detail about the savage level of commitment, invention, insane attention to detail, self-belief and staying power it takes to even break into the top 50, win three Michelin stars and all the rest.
Eventually the conversation came around to Noma. El Celler de Can Roca had just checked the seminal Danish restaurant’s run of four in a row. The moment René Redzepi’s name was mentioned, Joan stopped, took a deep breath, proudly put his fist to his chest and with perfect clarity said "Aaah, René, we love him, we love Noma – we are just minding this for René.”
From an industry stuffed with many overheated, macho, shouty and often arrogant chefs Joan almost had me in tears.
Tucked away in suburban Girona, from the outside Can Roca seems perhaps like a small boutique gallery but inside you are greeted as if you are coming to someone’s home. The food is breathtaking, and as delicious as it relentless.
There are too many stellar dishes to go into in detail but first you eat the world, a small paper globe with flavours inside from hand-picked countries around this planet of ours, and then you’re off to work your way around the Spain these three brothers know intimately, studded with some upside-down edible nostalgia along the way.
Their Viennetta, a savoury white asparagus ice cream with truffle layers. The cardboard scent mask you don for an edible version of Guerlain’s Shalimar, hitting all the great classic perfume’s notes with matching food flavours. All the while the three-tiered wine trolley is wheeled through the restaurant, the stuff of dreams. El Celler de Can Roca’s wine pairings are the best in the world.
It's always generous, witty and elegant, it is bigger than its food, wine list or service. It is a beacon for that special, unmeasurable alchemy – the only thing that finally matters in this business: warm, intelligent, genuine hospitality.
Noma has been bigger than Michelin for years now – it only has two stars on that list but is still the most influential restaurant in the world. Many would say that Redzepi’s influence is bigger than any list . But I wonder if, after today’s surprise result, those three humble gentle genius brothers in Girona think they’re just still keeping the spot warm for René, while the rest start to wonder was he minding it for them.
