The mallards are flying in over the rapeseed of Clare and the spray of the sea kisses the rocks out at Salthill. It's game season and the weather has turned to wet and windy. The temperature drops and drops. We don warmer clothes. We want warm food. We want food to comfort us.

A friend drops a few mallard into Aniar that have been shot in Co Laois. There’s broccoli and barley. It all seems to sing together, even though it’s just lying there on the table. Nothing much to do with barley and broccoli. Simmer the barley until soft, then strain and fold in a little ice-cold butter to make it luscious and glossy. Blanch the florets in salted boiling water (with a little butter, why not!) for two minutes, until they’re vibrant and green.

Pop the pan on and heat up a little rapeseed oil. The mallard breast cracks away in the hot oil. I want to get one side nice and crispy. When I’m happy, I flip it over and mount in a load of butter and sage. It foams. I cook it for another minute or two and then take it off to rest. Because the mallard is very lean you only want to cook it rare. If you’re looking for something well done, I suggest a confit duck leg as its cooked long and slow.

There’s so much to love about autumn. It’s a time for harvesting all those vegetables and fruits we planted in the summer. I focused on herbs this year, planting lovage, woodruff, anise hyssop and nasturtiums. I’ve yet to master the art of growing vegetables. They need time and attention. We should always appreciate a carrot when we meet it – take time to give it its due – it’s grown for you.

As well as mallard, there is also plenty of partridge, pigeon and pheasant around this time of year. All can be cooked in the same way. Make an effort to go out and find some and reconnect with our beautiful woodlands. Even if you don’t eat them, get your wellies on and take a walk in the woods.