Starry, starry soup with a love/hate ingredient

Anise is a strong flavour that is loved by some and abhorred by others. As a child anything liquorice flavoured was shunned, those sticky, tarry sweets were always left at the bottom of the pick and mix bag.

Slowly and surely, though, I’ve come to love anything anise. I never drank anise-flavoured Sambuca in my teenage years, so don’t have unpleasant memories of knocking it back.

Growing up I stuck to wine and cider, discovering spirits only in my late 20s. A shot of sambuca or arak on ice with a little water is now my favourite aperitif.

It’s so delicious but also it cleanses the palate and stimulates the appetite. Star anise has a very distinctive taste and is one of the ingredients in the traditional Chinese five spice blend as well as in garam masala. It’s also used in the making of pho, a Vietnamese noodle soup.

It’s a pretty, star-shaped fruit that’s hand-harvested from the illicium verum evergreen tree that grows in northeast Vietnam and southwest China.

I grew up knowing it as one of the spices that you threw into the mulled wine pot at Christmas along with a cinnamon stick, a bay leaf and some cloves. For me it represents the festive season, and warmth.

Star anise pairs beautifully with the sweetness of carrot. One of the nicest ways to serve carrots is as a buttery puree. Add a few star anise to the water when boiling the carrots and the subtle anise will permeate the puree. It’s lovely served with fish or roast chicken.

Soup season is upon us and this is one of my favourite soup recipes. As with all soups there is eating and drinking in it. It’s soup for the soul, giving warmth and fuel.

This is perfect for a packed lunch; just fill a flask or heat once you get to work or school. I dish up this soup as is but you could stir through some leftover roast chicken before serving.

To make a more decadent version, place a few pan-fried scallops into the bowl of soup just before serving. It’s a really elegant starter that is very easy to create.

I love vegetable-based soups like this. They’re so healthy and cost effective. Last winter I had a few different tubs of soup in the freezer, mostly leftovers in single portion tubs or Ziploc bags.

It’s so important to label everything that goes into the freezer at times like that, especially when it comes to soup.

They were perfect for filling in the gaps when dinner was a little late to the table or when a few extra people showed up for lunch. Little tea cups of warm soup are always welcome.

A few vegetables and some good stock are all that’s needed to make a good soup. I do usually start with a base of butter and onion too. It’s a classic Ballymaloe method that’s never failed me yet.