Salmon sometimes calls for more than a classic white Burgundy, writes Mary Dowey
We've grown used to eating salmon all year round - in much the same way that we've seized on wine as an any-day, everyday drink. But hang on a minute. Wild salmon is so ... well, wildly superior to its fatty farmed cousin that it still ranks as a very special treat. It deserves a reasonably stylish bottle to flatter its fine flavour, and although I wouldn't want to cause hours of agonising, I think it's worth making a minor effect to choose a promising match.
Salmon with white Burgundy is a classic combination, and there's a lot to be said for it. Whether you choose an unoaked wine such as Chablis or Mâcon (both very good with cold poached salmon) or a heavier, oakier style - anything from Rully up to posh Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault (better with creamy sauces), Burgundy has a crisp lemon acidity that cuts through the richness of salmon brilliantly. Good New World Chardonnay can also work very well, particularly if it comes from cooler regions which can deliver similar crispness (Western Australia, California, New Zealand, South Africa).
What if you're in retreat from Chardonnay? A good dry Riesling makes a delicious change and has that vital, citrussy acidity to benefit the fish. It will suit most cooking methods but is especially delicious when a touch of fusion comes into play, blending in perfectly with Asian flavours such as ginger, soy, rice wine, coriander or lemon grass. And don't forget newly-fashionable Grüner Veltliner from Austria - an unoaked wine which is rather like a half-way house between Chardonnay and Riesling.
Rosé wines are often overlooked as salmon mates - unfairly. As it's high summer and rosé, the perfect summer drink, is on a roll at last, give it serious consideration. The most delicate, low-alcohol pinks, from the Loire and Bordeaux, suit the lightest salmon dishes (and the colours look sensational together). But if you're introducing more robust flavours - by pan-searing, say, or the use of punchy spices - your fish will taste better with a more robust rosé. Scour the Languedoc, Spain, Italy or the New World for a round, fruity extrovert.
Red wine with fish? Absolutely! Salmon, meaty and substantial, makes it easy. It's important, however, to steer clear of tannic wines (such as Bordeaux and most other Cabernets - why Bordeaux appears so often on salmon-laden buffets is a deep mystery), or anything too full-bodied (forget Shiraz). Follow the same approach as for white wines and rosés, selecting a light style for salmon cooked simply without any strong competing flavours. Decent Beaujolais, young Loire reds and uncomplicated young Burgundies will all perform with aplomb. Pinot Noir from Alsace is also lovely with light salmon dishes.
If you turn up the heat with chilli or other spicy elements like ginger or cumin, these light reds will probably taste a bit too thin and bitter. Opt instead for a smooth, round young Pinot Noir from the New World - one with a plump cushion of ripe fruit and not too much oak (since spice also makes lavishly oaked wines taste bitter).
WHAT GOES WITH WHAT?
Cold poached salmon or salmon terrine You need a light, gentle wine. My number-one preference is for an unoaked white Burgundy (such as Chablis, Mâcon or our brilliantly affordable Bottle of the Week). But a light rosé from the Loire or Bordeaux would be delicious, too. All of these wines have good acidity - useful for cutting through the richness of the salmon, not to mention the mayonnaise which probably goes with it.
Try: Bourgogne Les Manants Côtes d'Auxerre, Jean-Marc Brocard 2002.
Warm salmon with hollandaise sauce The sauce is buttery, so the wine can afford to be on the creamy, buttery side too. There's plenty of choice. Consider a gently oaked white Burgundy like Rully or Pouilly-Fuissé, a grand Puligny-Montrachet or a distinctly buttery Meursault. Or go New Worldly!
Try: Hamilton-Russell Chardonnay, Walker Bay 2002. A subtle, classy South African Chardonnay whose smooth, buttery character, coming from discreetly handled French oak, is offset by a lively lemon cut. From O'Briens; Redmonds, Ranelagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock; Greenacres, Wexford; World Wide Wines, Waterford; O'Donovans, Cork and others, about €25.95.
Japanese style, with ginger and soy There are two really good bets here. A fruity, full-on rosé will go down a treat, and so will a ripe, mouth-filling New World Riesling (which may well have a hint of ginger in its make-up). Red wines are a little less successful but by no means out of the question. Keep light and fruity - that's the key.
Try: Woollaston Estates Riesling, Nelson 2001. With a few years of maturity, this is an ample New Zealander with hints of grapefruit and orange alongside a reviving mineral streak. Perfect with Asian food. From Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dawson St; Vineyard, Galway; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, about €14.99.
Grilled salmon You'd get away with just about any of the suggested wine styles with grilled salmon, since it sits in the middle of the flavour spectrum. But I think the caramelising effect of grilling (or pan-searing) makes it particularly tasty with a light red wine rather than a white or rosé.
Try: Chinon Les Granges, Bernard Baudry 2002.
Pan-seared with Asian spices Here you are venturing deeper into red territory. A fruity Beaujolais would be fine, but a smooth New World Pinot Noir with plenty of ripe fruit and just a kiss of oak would be better - with more intensity of flavour to counter the flavour assault of the food.
Try: Palliser Estate Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2001. A real dazzler - fragrant and vibrant, with a silky texture and rich, lingering flavours. From Sweeneys, Dorset St; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Higgins, Clonskeagh; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; O'Donovans, Cork; Fields SuperValu, Skibbereen and others, about €22.50. mdowey@irish-times.ie
Salmon-Friendly: the Shortlist
White: the classic choice
Burgundy - different styles suit different cooking methods
Unoaked to moderately oaked Chardonnay from elsewhere
Alsace Riesling
Australian or New Zealand Riesling
Austria's Grüner Veltliner
Rosé: summery, flexible and
stylish
Delicate Loire rosés: Chinon, Sançerre
Bordeaux rosé
Punchier pinks: South of France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, New World
Red: choose wisely and it works!
Cru Beaujolais (Fleurie, St Amour, Moulin-à-Vent etc) or Beaujolais-Villages
Loire reds like Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Sançerre
Light young Burgundy (like Givry, Rully, Mercurey, Monthélie, Fixin)
Alsace Pinot Noir
New World Pinot Noir (not too oaky)