Old-world charm

Mary Dowey gives a toast to the subtle wines from Europe.

Mary Dowey gives a toast to the subtle wines from Europe.

At the recent wine weekend in Enniscoe House organised by Mayo off-licence owners Gina and Stephen Gaffney - a wonderfully sybaritic idea which other enterprising wine merchants might steal with advantage - an intriguing trend emerged. When asked about their wine likes and dislikes, many of the 22 guests explained that, although they had previously preferred New World wines, they now found themselves firmly attached to Europe. This is at a time when the New World has roared ahead in the Irish market, selling roughly twice as many bottles as the Old World.

What does it mean? Is a wave of non-conformism sweeping the West? Interestingly, all of the Europhiles had taken wine classes. In most cases, just one introductory-level course had opened their eyes (or attuned their tastebuds) to a range of wine styles which they might previously have dismissed.

I think it is generally accepted now that most wine-drinkers start with the New World. Part of the success of countries such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, Argentina and the United States hinges on the fact that reliable sunshine produces ripe grapes which in turn make fruity, user-friendly wines. That abundant ripeness and the higher alcohol that goes with it often make them taste slightly sweeter than their European cousins, so they are easier to drink without food - indeed, often just easier to drink, full stop. This can be a major plus, particularly to new recruits who find that wine is inclined to taste bitter.

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As a few years pass and a mountain of bottles makes its way to the recycling bin, preferences often shift a bit. Many wine buffs drift toward Europe, where cooler weather patterns tend to result in wines with a little less sweetness and a little more freshness, perhaps even a slightly savoury streak. Over time, these tend to hold their appeal: they are less fatiguing on the palate than riper, more alcoholic styles. Mind you, the differences are less marked than they were even five years ago. Observing the popularity of round, fruity New World wines, many Old World producers are doing their damnedest to replicate them by leaving their grapes on the vine until they are super-ripe.

Then there is the whole "sense of place" argument. In many European regions, it is claimed that terroir - the soil and stone of a particular vineyard, its microclimate, flora and fauna - gives wines from that place unique and complex flavours in a process which local producers have come to understand and fine-tune over centuries. (The argument is fine, but we shouldn't forget that some parts of the New World which have also been making wine for a long time have exceptional terroir, too.)

Sooner or later, wine enthusiasts tend to zone in on the wines of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany and Austria - despite baffling labels which often give no clue to what lies inside the bottle. No wine-producing country in the world offers half as much mesmerising diversity as France, with so many different regions using so many different grapes to produce hundreds upon hundreds of distinctive wine styles. Italy probably comes next, given its vast treasure trove of indigenous grapes. And Spain is flexing the newly developed muscles of emerging regions to claim third place.

Let's raise a glass to these three countries this week - a glass of something subtle and alluring which needn't cost a fortune. (Christmas swank is but a few weeks away.) But to all those who seem to think I have sold my soul to the Old World, may I just say: no, I haven't. South Africa and Argentina are unbelievably exciting at the moment. New Zealand is on the march with heady Pinot Noir as well as tangy Riesling, and Australia's small, quality producers have never been better. I could happily drink good Clare or Eden Valley Riesling, Hunter Valley Semillon and not-too-strapping Shiraz until the kangaroos come home.

OLD WORLD CHARMERS - 10 UNDER €15

WHITE

Inycon Fiano Bianco di Sicilia 2003. See Bottles of the Week

Saint-Veran Les Monts 2003. The new vintage of a delicately peachy Burgundy from the southern end of the Maconnais continues to deliver great style and value. One to stock up on for Christmas. Don't overchill. From Marks & Spencer, €11.50.

Les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc, J&F Lurton 2003. Deliciously concentrated, pure flavours and zippy freshness mark this out as a finely tuned Sauvignon from a vineyard with cool morning mists. Worthy winner of a NOffLA Gold Star Award 2004. From NOffLA off-licences nationwide, €11.99.

Terres Dorées Chardonnay, Beaujolais 2003. It's not often that we come across white Beaujolais. More's the pity, to judge from this beauty which combines lovely honey, apple and lemon flavours with rewarding freshness. Like a decent Macon - but of course it's from an appellation just to the south. From Wines Direct, €12.75; minimum order six bottles (which may be mixed).

Melini Le Grillaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2002. Under its smooth, creamy texture, this subtly oaked Tuscan has a lively lemon core. A super main course white for fish, chicken or pork. From Nolans, Clontarf; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; McCabes, Mount Merrion; Harvest, Galway; O'Donovans, Cork, or by the case from www.thewineroom.ie, about €12.50.

RED

Altozano Cabernet-Tempranillo, La Mancha 1999. Nicely mature, this rich, raisiny Spanish blend is extraordinarily good value - streets ahead of the pure Tempranillo which is its running mate, so be sure you pick up the right bottle. From Molloys outlets; Goggins, Monkstown; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Bunch of Grapes, Clonee; Mill, Maynooth; Bradleys, Cork and others, usually €7.99.

Lamberti Castello Monaci Primitivo, Salento 2002. This smouldering Italian from the deep south offers dark berry flavours leading gradually into a firm, chewy finish. Perfect for winter casseroles. From Cellars Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Rd; Vintry, Rathgar; Deveneys, Dundrum; Cheers-Burnaby, Greystones; Cheers-Wicklow Arms, Delgany, usually about €9.95.

Chateau Maris Tradition Minervois 2001. See Bottles of the Week.

Heredad de Barros Tinto Crianza, Ribera del Guardiana, San Marcos 2000. An elegant, plummy red from Extremadura with a firm, savoury underpinning - perfect for roast lamb or beef. From Bubble Brothers, Cork, €12.95; also Drinks Store, Stoneybatter; Mortons, Ranelagh; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Dwyers, Gorey; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Urru, Bandon; Jaynes, Ennis and many others.

Michel Lynch Bordeaux Rouge 2000. A major step up in quality from the basic Michel Lynch - rich, meaty and lingering. Very decent drinking at the price. From many SuperValus/Centras countrywide; selected Next Door outlets; Spar, Sandycove; Wine Well, Dunboyne; Portlaoise Wine Vaults; Lonergans, Clonmel; O'Sullivans, Blarney; O'Driscolls, Cahirciveen and others, usually €14.99.

NAPA CLASSES

Interested in learning more about the plush wines of the Napa Valley, California's grandest wine region? Wine writer Liam Campbell is giving tutored tastings of Napa Valley wines at the American College, 2 Merrion Square, Dublin, on Thursday November 11th and 18th and December 2nd. Book right away - space is limited to the first 15 people to e-mail justineadam@eircom.net.

Fee per class: €20.