Rumour has it the dinner party is back, albeit at the moment held in the garden, writes Hugo Arnold
Gone are the casual suppers, the drop-in-and-take-what's-coming approach. We've noticed a return to dressing up and eating at dressed up tables. And all that pressure on the cook. Or maybe not. If you cook this menu, there is not much preparation, and little cooking to attend to. Every chance to pour yourself a glass of white wine and join in the conversation.
The modern way to cook a scallop is to season it well and hurl it onto a hot pan. Sear the outside until it turns a seductive golden colour, flip it over and repeat, before serving with some choice leaves and a dribble of extra virgin olive oil. The Chinese, however, know a thing or two about these pearls of the sea, and have a fondness either for drying them - which intensifies the flavour wonderfully - or steaming them in their shells. A dash of soy sauce and, oyster-fashion, down they go. The recipe below plays on the Chinese theme, but dispenses with the shells, which might be a little messy to serve up for a dinner party, although queen scallops, the tiny ones, could be served in the shells.
Coriander leaves do not stand up to cooking. Used sparingly, they work well as a garnish, by which I mean they are worth eating as part of the dish, rather than leaving on the side of your plate. It is the stems and roots which retain their distinctive flavour when heated. Restraint is the order of the day here - coriander will take over given half a chance.
Lamb is good at this time of year. The meat has lost its early-season softness and takes on a welcome, robust edge. Buy the haricot beans from a good delicatessen, rather than a supermarket. Italian brands are the ones to look for as they are more likely to have the inherent creaminess that makes a good haricot. Rosemary is such a strong herb that it almost seems to be a spice. But it is much neglected and works well, not only with lamb but with chicken and game too.