In nearly three decades of writing about Galway, the unspoken rule was I could never mention the city without referring to it as artsy and bohemian. It’s the de facto capital for what is imprecisely described as “alternative living”, whether that be moon-led biodynamic farming, growing hemp or connecting with your inner kabuki artist.
The best way to enjoy the city? Unleash your inner Dionysius through food, drink and song. Galway's grub credentials are so well established as to be taken for granted, thanks to the pioneering efforts of JP McMahon's always marvellous Aniar (aniarrestaurant.ie), the tasty seasonal specialties of Ard Bia at Nimmo's (ardbia.com) and the gastronomic flights of fancy at Enda McEvoy's Loam (loamgalway.com).
Want to eat on the run? Kai (kairestaurant.ie) has them salivating with its seasonal cuisine. Dough Bros' (thedoughbros.ie) does scrumptious pizzas out of a food truck at the back of O'Connell's pub (a beaut of a bar where they also filmed Ed Sheeran's infernal Galway Girl, but don't hold that against them), while Rory McCormack and Cathal O'Connor's Handsome Burger (handsomeburger.com) on Dominick Street does not disappoint.
But if you really want a proper picture of the city's top class food scene, the 2½-hour food tour of the city with Galway Food Tours (galwayfoodtours.com) is highly recommended. They've also got a self-guided version complete with €55 worth of vouchers to spend along the way.
Everyone who visits Galway has their favourite pub, so I won’t bore you with a list of them other than to say that you’ll never not enjoy the Crane Bar, the music in Tig Cóilí is always excellent and Garavan’s the place to go for whiskey and its accompanying tasting platters.
Heritage and hedonism
And if you can find some time for a bit of heritage amid the hedonism, the Galway City Museum (galwaycitymuseum.ie) is one of Ireland's very best, with the story of the city told through a range of fascinating artefacts both acquired and donated.
The city is really just a distracting appetiser for the main course that is Connemara. Magnificent desolation: if Buzz Aldrin hadn’t described the moon thus, the term could apply to those deep pockets of Connemara untroubled by humanity’s messy pawprint, although this staycation summer will see crowds flock in unprecedented numbers to take advantage of the region’s stunning beauty.
You can explore pretty much all of it and not be disappointed. Not far from the city and Lough Corrib is Wildlands Galway (wildlands.ie) where the whole family can engage in everything from zip-n-trek and orienteering to yoga and archery, as well as some beautiful walking trails overlooking Ballyquirke Lake.
Almost the whole of Connemara is ideal walking country, but one gorgeous walk that is perfect for the whole family is the loop on Inis Ní, just off the R341 about 2km northeast of Roundstone, beyond the vast and empty bog – you can park just over the bridge. The 6km trail around the island exposes the untamed wildness of Connemara and throws in stunning views back toward Roundstone and the Twelve Bens. You can extend your walk by aiming for the furthest point on the island.
If Roundstone gets busy, part of the blame must lie with the twin delights of Dog's Bay and Gurteen Bay, two white sand beaches made from crushed seashells separated by a sandspit; if it was 15 degrees warmer you could be in the Caribbean. (If you want privacy, head to the last of the three sections on Gurteen, where few ever venture.) And, when you're done, head back into Roundstone for some lobster chowder at O'Dowd's (odowdsseafoodbar.com) or pick up a sublime toastie from Goodstuff Roundstone, a food truck parked in Michael Killeen Park. They run out of goodies so try to get there before the middle of the afternoon. Just 13km north of Roundstone, tiny Ballyconneely is where you'll find the remarkable Sweet Nothings cafe, where owner Justyna Janusiewicz prepares vegan and vegetarian wonders.
Connemara comfort
If you want to treat yourself to a bit of Connemara comfort, elegant Ballynahinch Castle (ballynahinch-castle.com) – 6km from Roundstone – has four-poster beds, fishing on private lakes and the wonderful Owenmore restaurant. From here, it's a cinch to find yourself in the heart of the Lough Inagh valley, whose stark landscapes are a favourite with walkers, even if the trails can get busy in summer.
Here's a handy one: a new service from Aran Island Ferries (aranislandferries.com) to Inis Mór from Galway city centre was launched this summer. You get to spend 4½ hours on the island before zipping back to the city, but not before first taking in a quick trip past the Cliffs of Moher, so you can enjoy Dún Aonghasa and the cliffs in one day. Whatever you do, be sure to get an ice-cream from Paudy's before you leave.
On Inis Meáin, the scenery is everything (think a jagged coastline of cliffs, beautiful beaches and lots of stone walls), but one of the main attractions these days is the chance to bed down at the superb Inis Meáin suites, a boutique hotel whose five rooms book out up to a year in advance. I’m not saying you’ll get a room (just think of all those rebookings from last year) but this is the year of last-minute cancellations due to restrictions (all those poor Americans who can’t travel) and the dreaded virus, which can ruin even the best-planned holiday with a positive test. It really doesn’t hurt to try.
