The gilet or sleeveless vest, padded or quilted, is the most practical and stylish way to layer up in winter. Keeping the body warm, but allowing the arms freedom, it is lovely worn either over a sweater or a shirt and tie and there are many variations at prices from €15 (Dunnes Stores) up to €298 at Lululemon.
It is not surprising that it is one of the key items in Paul Costelloe’s latest menswear collection for Dunnes Stores. A self-confessed “total jeans man”, his everyday uniform consists of denim jeans, striped shirt and, as he cycles to work daily from Putney to his studio in Marble Arch in London, layered with a quilted gilet.
The veteran Irish designer is proud of his menswear collection, now in its 10th year and in 50 stores throughout Ireland “and growing”, he says. For autumn/winter 2024, it consists of 45 pieces – everything from ties to suits and leather bags.
Six grown-up sons, most of whom have an artistic bent, keep him on his toes, but it is William, a painter whose subtle colour sense informs all his father’s collections, who is probably the strongest influence and very involved in the business. Responsible for the backdrop for this shoot, with its familiar image of Dublin’s twin towers, he also happens to be the brand’s house model and a perfect size 40, medium.
The new collection acknowledges the current trend for plum and dark sage along with the conventional shades of brown, navy and off white used for chunky knitwear, fine needlecord trousers and winter staples that include wax jackets and cashmere blend overcoats, and all at accessible price points.
In our conversation, he frequently cites the way Tom Cruise dresses as something he admires, and argues that suits and ties “have not gone out completely. I like the idea of leaving the tie loose, wearing a suit casually the way both Cruise and Colin Farrell do, and who look good in a suit.” The few times he dons one are for “serious occasions”. For his daughter Jessica’s wedding, he wore a black one with a black tie.
He describes the cut and fit of his menswear as more English and German than Italian. “By that I mean it is not as tapered in – more a comfort fit and you have to get that right to please customers.”
He argues that women generally appreciate good-quality menswear and should shop certain items for themselves like the black and white jacquard sweaters. “I have to thank Irish wives for dragging their husbands into shop [my menswear] when they should be out at rugby matches,” he laughs, though he admits that dressing rugby players is a poisoned chalice “because it is very difficult to get tailoring right for them and so outerwear like gilets or waxed jackets are a better choice”.
Costelloe is planning a fashion show at the family house in Monkstown in Dublin, which he has retained though London remains home. The city works for him in other ways too “because I can sit down when I get to Marble Arch and watch how people dress, and there is so much going on here, that it keeps me in touch and visible”.
Another Irish menswear designer is Niamh Gillespie, whose quality prints and patterns and luxury accessories for men on her Tidings brand are aimed at a particular customer. “He is bold and brazen,” she says, “unafraid to take risks in fashion and in life, and his confidence is reflected in his sophisticated yet distinct clothing choices and his bravado.”
Called Modern Gentry, her new collection has three styles of scarf in different patterns and colour variations – printed silks backed with high-quality wool (important to stop silk from slipping), pure wool printed with striking designs and soft narrow silks. “The palette is rich and opulent, the patterns opulent and fun.” Any one of these pieces would add drama to any outfit, an effective way to make an everyday ensemble stand out.
With more than 20 years’ design experience working with Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen and Liberty, Gillespie’s unisex collections with their underlying playfulness have won her many accolades. Her recent collaborations have included working with Paboy Home on a number of bold and bright cushions as well as a limited-edition capsule of heritage-inspired silk scarves at Dromoland Castle’s boutique. Prices for scarves start from €189. Clothes featured with her scarves are from Louis Copeland and Tony McDonnell in Dundalk. www.tidings.ie
