Parties are wrapped into the ritual of Christmas giving. And, just like presents, they come in all shapes and sizes - from big and economical to bijou and eye-poppingly luxurious. Which style of entertaining appeals to you most, and what are the wines to match it? I asked four wine addicts to draw up plans for four very different sorts of party and decide what drinks they'd choose with £100 to blow on bottles. The intriguing and, I think, inspiring results of this fantasy splurge appear below.
A few points to bear in mind, before you rush to stock up. The quantities given are based on average consumption - a decidedly fuzzy concept in this country. If in doubt about your guests' appetites, buy extra: ideally from a wine merchant who will agree on sale-or-return. Don't fill glasses more than two-thirds full - not out of meanness (though there's no denying this tactic stretches supplies), but because, good heavens above, it's just not done: the wine will make more impact if it can unleash its aromas into that space at the top. And lay on as much mineral water as wine. Drivers and modest drinkers will appreciate it, but so will serious imbibers who know hangover prevention absolutely depends on downing a glass of water for every one of wine.
Evening Drinks Party For 30
Ruth Fitzgerald travels the world as a director of Mayoruna International, a trading company which sources products for large retail chains in Europe and the United States - stopping off at as many vineyards as possible along the way. Her love of wine has progressed from casual hobby to serious study (she's a second-year diploma student in Dublin) and may eventually lead to importing. Here's her selection of wines to sip pleasurably, with or without food:
White: seven bottles Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 1996 (very widely available, £5.99).
A party star because it's genuinely refreshing. "It's really fruity, with lovely gooseberry and lime flavours," Ruth Fitzgerald says, "and there's plenty of lively acidity, yet it's not tart." In other words, you can drink lots. OR seven bottles Canepa Chardonnay 1996 (O'Briens, most SuperValus and many independent off-licences, £5.49-£5.99). This unoaked Chilean Chardonnay is all about lightness and restraint. "It's quite crisp and delicious." Elegance on a shoestring.
Red: 10 bottles Chateau Baronis Corbieres 1994 (Mitch- ells, £5.99).
A medium-bodied Corbieres packed with dark fruit flavours and with no harsh edges. "Very pleasant, easy drinking." See Bottle of the Week OR 10 bottles Berberano Tempranillo Rioja 1996 (Tesco/Quinnsworth, £5.99) "Nice and fruity, with lots of lovely, peppery spice," says Ruth. Young and juicy - fine without food.
Morning Drinks Party For 15
Tom Murphy, MD of BMW agents Murphy & Gunn, plunged deeply into wine some years ago when it struck him the company's policy of giving spirits at Christmas was stick-in-the-mud. "I went into Findlaters for advice and it developed from there." For morning drinks over Christmas he suggests offering a choice of two sparklers:
Three bottles Pelorus, Cloudy Bay, 1993 (Findlaters, Redmonds, Mitchells, Thomas Foxrock, Greenacres Wexford, Fine Wines Limerick, Vineyard Galway and other outlets, £15.99-£16.99).
"Just perfect - soft and full whereas champagne can sometimes be quite acid," says Tom Murphy. I'm a recent convert to this creamy, opulent New Zealand thoroughbred myself.
Three bottles Bourgogne Rouge Mousseux, Prosper Maufoux, (Mitchells, Deveneys, Verlings, Redmonds, Limerick Fine Wines and other outlets, £15.95-£16.95).
Like a lot of people, our putative morning party man didn't realise sparkling red wine existed until he stumbled across a fizzy Australian Shiraz - and began hunting. "This is a lovely, refreshing drink with that little hint of sweetness that's just right if you don't much feel like drinking in the morning. And it's so festive - red with white on top, like Santa Claus."
Supper Party For 10
Carrie Crowley, RTE presenter, sees her love of wine as the natural adjunct to a lusty appetite for good food. While working for Radio Waterford a few years ago she took a wine course with David Dennison of the Wine Vault and began to take note of different styles. "There is nothing I like better than to be invited out to somebody's house for dinner, or to have a group of people in." Here's how:
Aperitif: One bottle Bombay Sapphire Gin (widely available, £14.99) plus three litre bottles Schweppes Indian Tonic (widely available, £1).
It's the one in the blue bottle - highly refined and aromatic since its flavours come from 10 botanical sources instead of the usual four or five. "I serve G & T with a slice of cucumber instead of lemon," says Carrie Crowley. A refreshing change.
White: Three bottles Penfolds Rawson's Retreat Bin 21 (very widely available, usually £6.99).
"I used to hate white wine because I thought it was all sweet. Then I really got into it. This one is very accessible and delicious." A fruity Aussie blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Colombard.
Red: Four bottles Wolf Blass Presidents Selection Shiraz 1994 (many outlets including Superquinn, Tesco/Quinnsworth, many SuperValus, Pettitts, usually £11.99).
Let the presenter present it. "A lovely, smooth, warming, liquoricey wine with a lot of depth. I'd call it almost syrupy," she says. Rich, spicy and utterly Christmas-like.
Dessert: Two half bottles Essencia Orange Muscat 1995 (McCabes, Redmonds, Dublin Wine Co Malahide, Mill Wine Cellar Maynooth, Noble Rot Navan, usually about £6.95).
A good partner for all those seasonal puds with winter fruits - made by the clever Californian winemaker Andrew Quady.
Dinner Party For Six
Ian Donnelly, MD of Hickeys Fabrics, inherited his father's love of fine wines and feels so passionate about them that the greatest threat to any dinner parties he and his wife Sharon Bacon give is his tendency to let wine flood the conversation. These wines were chosen to match Sharon's pre-Christmas dinner party menu for a small group of wine fanatics, featuring crab cakes, traditional Beef Wellington and rich chocolate tart with a berry compote:
Aperitifs: One bottle Champagne Ruinart NV (Redmonds, Deveneys, Terroirs, Cooneys Harold's Cross, Gibneys Malahide, Kellys Monkstown, Wine Vault Waterford, O'Donovans Cork, special Christmas price about £21.99).
Champagne is the ultimate aperitif - because of its delicious finesse and because it's a magic way of making people relax. "As a non-vintage I'd much rather have this one, from a small house, than one of the big labels," says Ian Donnelly. Nice and biscuity with a lovely mousse.
Half bottle Lustau Dry Amontillado Los Arcos (McCabes, Red- monds, Verlings, some SuperValus, O'Donovans Cork, Limerick Fine Wines and other outlets, usually £7.99).
A delicious, almondy treat for any non-champagne drinkers. "Chilled sherry is just so delicious," says Ian Donnelly. "I'm always getting people to try it - and the Lustau range is superb."
White: Two bottles Domaine Bois d'Yver Chablis Premier Cru Montmains 1996 (Cooneys Har- old's Cross, Deveneys, Redmonds, Gibneys Malahide, Kellys Monkstown, O'Donovans Cork, Wine Vault Waterford, usually about £12.50).
"All the steely, mineral qualities associated with good Chablis, and a nice amount of fruit," says the host. "Young but absolutely delicious."
Red: Two bottles Leeuwin Estate Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 (Searsons, £16.50). Half way to Bordeaux in terms of style, which suits a wine lover whose palate is as open to the New World as the old. "Classic, rich Australian fruit but great balance and subtlety, too." A new classic wine - deeply impressive.
Dessert: Half bottle Peter Lehmann Barossa Botrytis Semillon 1995 (Vintry, Verlings, Jus de Vine, Deveneys, Sweeneys Dorset St, Redmonds, McCabes and some other outlets, usually £8.99). A delectable Aussie alternative to Sauternes at a much more appetising price. "It's full but not cloying - a lovely young wine." Buy extra and save some for the Christmas pud.
On The Grapevine
Berry Bros & Rudd, the grand old London wine merchants, have decided to make a selection of their wares available in Ireland - a result, they kindly say, of the interest generated by a feature in this column last February.
Foleys Fine Wines, 33 Johnstown Road, Cabinteely, is carrying about 30 wines from the Berry's Own Selection range, recognised for offering consistent quality at a reasonable price. Berry's Good Ordinary Claret is included, fans will be glad to hear, at £5.92.