There is a powerful air of authority about Harry McKeogh's cooking in his smart new restaurant, The Cherry Tree, enviably located on the lake shore at Killaloe, Co Clare.
It's an authority bred of experience and maturity. Here is a cook who, for the last clatter of years, has been John Cooke's right-hand man at Cooke's Cafe in Dublin, and who also cooked in both Le Gavroche and Fortnum & Mason in London before an aquatic stint on board the QE2.
The authority shows in the way McKeogh will take a classic idea such as asparagus spears bundled in Parma ham, but then add a neat little improvisation by making a fine paste of mushrooms and sage leaves and interleaving this between the folds of the dish. It's a lovely touch, showing respect to the classic pairing and yet very distinctly making it McKeogh's own.
The air of authority emanates from this strong respect for culinary history. McKeogh knows how to make a great Caesar salad, and great aged sirloin of beef. His respect for his ingredients means he knows when to leave well alone: my dessert on the warm summer's evening when I ate dinner at the Tree was simply organic strawberries with a champagne sabayon. Strawberries and sabayon and nothing else, and it was as sublime as food can be.
But then, my main course of roasted organic salmon with salsa verde and a fritter of anchovies was similarly restrained and just as perfectly executed. You can't argue with food as complete and impressive as this, and it explains why The Cherry Tree has been such a success since McKeogh opened earlier this year.
The air of authority and respectfulness is evident everywhere in The Cherry Tree. McKeogh's young team of local guys and girls, and his young chef Mark Anderson, are so totally into their work that it's a treat just to watch them master this light, bright, modern room. Here is a marvellous modern Irish restaurant.
Warm Asparagus Bundles with Truffle Oil
24 spears of asparagus 6 large flat mushrooms 1-2 shallots 6-8 leaves of fresh sage Olive oil 8 thin slices of Parma ham Grated Parmesan Truffle oil
Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and discard or save for soup. Blanch the asparagus in a large pot of boiling water salted to taste. Refresh in iced water.
Chop the mushrooms finely or pulse in a food processor. Chop the shallots finely. Heat a saute pan, sweat off shallots in olive oil until translucent, then add chopped mushrooms, sweat down and stir occasionally, steaming off excess moisture until you have a paste consistency.
Chop fresh sage leaves, add to the mushroom paste, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Lay out eight thin slices of Parma ham, spread mushroom paste on each slice, place three spears of asparagus on each slice and roll up into a bundle.
To serve, place the bundles on a baking tray, sprinkling with Parmesan cheese, and place in a hot oven until warm through.
Serve on warm plates, two bundles each, and drizzle with truffle oil.
Roast Wild Salmon with Salsa Verde and Fritters of Anchovies
Serves 4
4 portions of wild salmon fillet, approx 6/7
2 tablespoons chopped chervil 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon rinsed and chopped capers 1 shallot, finely chopped Zest of 1 lemon 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 12 anchovy fillets Plain flour salt and pepper
Pre-heat oven to 200C. Heat a large frying pan, add a little olive oil. When the pan begins to smoke, place the salmon fillets on it presentation side down. Allow three to four minutes cooking to seal the fish and to create a lovely golden crust.
Transfer to a roasting tin and place in the oven to complete cooking. Check after five minutes and if the fish is still too pink, cook it a little longer.
For the salsa verde: combine the chopped herbs, capers, shallots, lemon zest and extra virgin olive oil and add salt and pepper to taste.
For the anchovy fritters: pre-heat a deep fat fryer to 190C. Dip the anchovies in the seasoned flour, gently place in the fryer. Turn occasionally and cook until golden on both sides.
Serve salmon on warm plates, garnish with the salsa verde, with a salad of various organic leaves and a trio of anchovy fritters.
The Cherry Tree Restaurant, Lakeside, Ballina/Killaloe, Co Clare, tel: 061-375688