Half way down Italy's leg on the Adriatic side, Abruzzo produces more wine than Chile - much of it gutsy, gulpable red from the Montepulciano grape. There are some quite posh versions around, but for sheer value Canaletto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Casagirelli, 1998 (outlets above, usually £6.99) is hard to beat. Ripe cherry flavours overlaid with vanilla; plenty of perky acidity; no rough edges. It will go with pizzas, pastas, chicken or any other kind of meat. And you don't even have to struggle with an unrecognisable name. The great painter has a hand in the label.