Sniff it - all raspberries and smoke - and it seems not very different from hundreds of other inexpensive young reds. But taste Can Vendrell, Penedes, Albeti Noya, 1997 (stockists above, usually £6.99) and I think you'll be surprised by its exuberant character and distinctive, lingering flavours. What value! It takes a newcomer from northern Spain to beat the midwinter blues.