Why couldn't I have found Gaia Thalassitis, Santorini, 1998 (Oddbins, £8.99) on my Greek holiday last year? Mouthwateringly fresh with gentle, appley fruit and a firm, crisp finish, this is the kind of wine that invites you to have another mouthful of some light, summery food, then another sip, and another, until you wonder where it's gone. It's a warm-climate Chablis with a bit of Greek mystery and a lot of style - helped along by a tall, heavy bottle and an all-hellenic label. Gaia is apparently pronounced yeah-ha, by the way - not guyya. Piedmont's Titan Gaja can relax.