Like the sound of a designer wine? Michael Gramsch persuades an old winemaking pal to fashion Ungsteiner Nussriegel Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Pfalz, 1997 (Octavius, Sligo and other outlets above, £7£8.99) precisely to his liking every year. This fruity, friendly Riesling, with just enough mineral hints to keep it interesting, is the sort of wine you can knock back with astonishing ease. Good with food or without, and even better with sun.