I rarely write retrospectively about wine dinners - feeling disinclined to trawl, course by course and glass by glass, through other people's smug reports of gastro soirees. But the dinner hosted recently by Findlaters and Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, featuring the domaine burgundies of Bouchard Pere et Fils, is worth mentioning because the line-up of wines - all five outstanding - may provide inspiration for anybody who's planning to end the century with serious panache. Here we go: Meursault-Genevrieres 1997, Corton-Charlemagne 1995, Beaune-Greves 1er Cru Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus 1995, Corton 1990 and Volnay Cail lerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1964. The Beaune-Greves (unutterably delicious with Guilbaud's roast mallard) and the Volnay Caillerets (current vintage on sale 1995) are among the most thrilling wines I've tasted in a long time.