A visit to the Ramore Restaurant in Portrush one recent Saturday evening was a reminder of how terrific it is to see George McAlpin's imaginative, confident cooking matched with an eclectic list of wines at the kind of prices that make you deeply thankful for taxis. Yes, I know lower northern duty, VAT and the position of sterling help - but even so, it was astonishing to find Guigal Condrieu (see above) 1995 at £35.75 stg; Petaluma Chardonnay 1995 at £19 stg; Gallo Freiranch Zinfandel 1994 at £17.95 stg; Peter Lehmann Grenache 1997 at just £7.95 stg; Caliterra Merlot 1997 at £7.95 stg . . . and these are restaurant prices, remember! I chose a bin end - a benchmark Californian, Saintsbury Pinot Noir 1995 at £17.50stg, and still haven't recovered from the pleasure - or the shock.