I have a firm belief that good food and wine and the appreciation of them have a direct link with civility and culture. Our attitudes in Ireland have come a long way in the past 10 years and with more disposable income, we can indulge ourselves in wine and food. With the increased demand, restaurants and quality food shops have sprung up around the country - often set up by people who have trained abroad.
From our experience here in the Tannery restaurant, we found it took time for us to learn what our customers wanted - and indeed for them to try us out. Our very first two paying customers on our opening night walked out, saying they didn't really like anything on the menu. You can imagine how we felt after almost a year of planning the restaurant! The following week a woman stormed out accusing us of serving: "muck and slop"! With comments like these it is wise to accept that what we do will not suit everyone.
More Irish people now regard dinner in a restaurant as a night out in itself as opposed to a prelude to going to the pub. Armed with an increasing knowledge of food and encouraged by all the food shows on television, people are now more willing to try things they wouldn't even touch two years ago. Back then (and we are only talking 1997 here) I couldn't even give couscous away - and as for polenta, forget it. Now these are flying out the door but I find this can also work in reverse. A smoked salmon blini with herb creme fraiche which was very popular when it was first on the menu two years ago wouldn't sell recently. The question I find hardest to answer is: "What kind of food do you cook?" I have never managed to define my style. Truthfully, I cook according to how I feel, what books I am reading, if I have been somewhere nice on holidays, what restaurants I eat in. Every new ingredient is a voyage of discovery. Mistakes will be made but as long as there are lessons learned, they will have been worthwhile.
I sense the beginning of a backlash against the so-called fusion food of the moment. Critics who embraced the idea of mixing different ingredients and techniques seem tired of it now. Like most other things, food is a fashion. Certain styles come and go and whether it be Thai cuisine, Pacific Rim, French or Italian, what doesn't change is good cooking. There is a huge difference between a chef and a cook. I see a chef as being a very disciplined person, perhaps with a team of people under him. A cook however, is something altogether different. He or she cooks from the heart with pure instinct.
They are like these French grandmothers you hear about who effortlessly cook beautiful, simple meals and derive great pleasure from the work itself, the satisfied faces and empty plates. These are the people I am in awe of. Luckily for the young generation of restaurant-goers in Ireland, the time when all we ate was overdone meat and veg is just a hazy memory. People now expect to be served well cooked and presented food and are willing to pay for a dining experience they cannot have at home. Our horizons are broadening and I for one am glad of it.
Onion Bahjis
1 large Spanish onion, halved and finely sliced plain flour 1 red chilli, finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped coriander 1 carton natural yoghurt 3 teaspoons turmeric 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons garam masala 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper salt and black pepper
Add the spices to the yoghurt. Add the onion, then add enough sieved plain flour to stiffen. Shape into small, firm patties or balls and deep fry until golden brown. Do not make the patties too big or the inside will not cook.
Sweet Tomato and Cuminglazed Leg of Lamb with Onion Bahjis, Raita, Apricot and Almond Rice
This is a different approach to a Sunday roast. The sweet glazed lamb is tempered with the sharp crunchy raita and the crispiness of the bahjis.
For 6 people: 1 small leg of lamb 3 cloves garlic chopped 1 oz cumin powder 1 small knob of ginger, finely chopped 1 lamb stock cube 1/2
pint water 1 pinch celery salt 2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly 1 pint tomato juice 2 tablespoons sugar
Mix all the ingredients together and pour over the lamb in a deep roasting dish. Cover with tinfoil and place in 175C/350F gas 4 oven for 45 minutes. Remove foil and turn up the heat to 200C/400 gas 41/2. Baste from time to time until the liquid is syrupy, about a further 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to rest in a warm place for at least 30 minutes before carving.
Cucumber Raita
1/2 pint natural yoghurt 1 cucumber peeled, seeded and diced 1 pinch finely chopped fresh mint 1 clove of garlic, minced
Mix all the ingredients together.
Apricot and Almond Pilaff
1 medium onion finely diced 2 oz butter 3 bay leaves 40 g basmati rice light chicken stock, 2 parts to 1 part rice 3 oz dried apricots roughly chopped 3 oz toasted flaked almonds
Sweat the onions over a gentle heat until translucent. Add rice and bay leaves, making sure they are well coated, then add the apricots, almonds and hot chicken stock. Bring to the boil, simmer, add salt and pepper, cover and place in a pre-heated oven 150C/300F/ gas 3 for 15 mins. Do not stir during cooking. The rice should absorb all the liquid. Remove and allow to rest with the lid off. Stir, correct seasoning if necessary.