Peru 2000, that's where I'm at. And in case I had any doubts, the slogan Peru 2000 is emblazoned on every city wall, carved into mountain sides in gargantuan letters, and adorns baseball caps and T-shirts everywhere, like some global sporting event.
Its purpose, however, was neither to remind me of my whereabouts nor to promote the South American soccer cup, but to remind Peruvians of their obligation to vote in the presidential and congressional elections which took place earlier this year. For Peruvians, voting is compulsory, and in this year's elections every vote counted, as the incumbent president Alberto Fujimori faced stiff competition from Alejandro Toledo. The eventual outcome, after two rounds of elections, granted Fujimori his third term as president, but has been hotly contested by many Peruvians who are unhappy with their current head of state.
The first I heard of all this turmoil was in a cafe in Chile. As I picked at my papas fritas, I was diverted by the television broadcast, which showed scenes of rioting against a background of burning buildings. The only thing I understood from the Spanish newscaster was the word Lima. I was due there within a week.
By the time I arrived in the Peruvian capital, my worst travel fears about banditos, political coups and tropical diseases had found their focus in the Peruvian riots. Driving past cordoned-off streets on the way to my hotel, my taxi-driver pointed out the charred remains of the Central Bank which had been burned out during the riots and reduced to a pile of rubble in moments by a bomb. However, the streets of Lima were disappointingly calm as people went about their daily lives in apparent apathy, and my strolls through the streets revealed, initially at least, a city calmly conducting business as usual.
But beneath this tranquil surface, a murmur of dissent became more and more audible the longer I stayed in Peru. A journalist in Arequipa begged me to "tell the truth about Peru", glancing furtively over his shoulder as he whispered that Fujimori was a crook. Protesters collected daily on the Plaza San Martin in Lima, condemned their president as a cheat, claimed he had rigged the elections and that if he served a third term in office it would be against the Peruvian constitution.
Despite the obvious unrest, the dissatisfaction that bubbled beneath the surface, it wasn't the political turmoil that turned out to be the most threatening element during my time in Peru but the issue of health, or lack thereof. Thankfully, my own constitution has remained robust, but the illnesses that dogged my trip here made me an expert on bowel movements, oxygen administration and relaxation techniques, and were unquestionably the scariest part of my travels to date.
It began with Tanja. My long-term travelling companion, confidante, tenting partner and drinking buddy was finally undone by Peru. Having survived "Delhi belly" and "Katmandu-itis", something in South America penetrated her defences, leaving her vomiting unremittingly and fainting on a frighteningly regular basis. After one nearfatal bus journey and a rather unsavoury hospital experience (bloodstained sheets, endless tests), she called it a day and booked a flight back to Ireland, where she feels decidedly better.
Despite the illness, the political unrest and the dearth of hot showers, Peru has so far been a remarkably pleasant place in which to spend some time. The people are friendly - the men friendly to a fault, at times. But whatever catcalls and whistles that I was encountering - every time I left my hotel room - were considerably lessened by the presence of a male companion. While Lima has its seedy areas, it also boasts a beautiful plaza, intriguing churches at every corner and a changing of the guard ceremony outside the Presidential Palace which is worth a look, if only for the SpiceGirl kicks performed by the enchantingly flexible Peruvian guards.
Apart from the capital, there are several smaller and more negotiable cities around Peru, not to mention mountain villages, historical ruins and numerous national reserves. Trujillo, a seaside town in the North is worth a visit as much for the opportunity to loll on the beaches nearby and dine on ceviche (marinated raw fish), as to visit the pre-Inca ruins of Chan Chan and load up on historical lore. The southern Peruvian city of Arequipa is another popular tourist destination, with its picturesque setting at the foot of the volcano, El Misti. Peru's second city, Arequipa has museums, monasteries and a plethora of restaurants that kept me nicely amused on both of my visits there.
From what I've been told, Peru 2000 is a far cry from Peru 1990, when the terrorist group, Sendero Luminoso, still reigned and tourists were warned against taking buses into the the mountains for fear of being hijacked. Travellers then wore wire mesh around their backpacks to protect them against thieves, and many of the roads were unpaved and a lot less navigable. Nowadays, Peru is a gringo-friendly country, with Internet cafes and tourist menus in every city. Even remote mountain villages have adapted to cater for the tourist trade, and locals will emerge in traditional costume at the sight of a tour bus, with lamas and alpacas in tow.
Fiona McCann is travelling around the world.
roundtheworld@ireland.com