An interest in heritage, nowadays, has a strongly vigilante dimension. Monuments are assessed in terms of their vulnerability to vandalism and development as much as to natural erosion and weathering. Not all heritage stories have to be gloomy, though.
One of Ireland's finest portal tombs, the Proleek Dolmen, resides in the grounds of the Ballymascanlon Hotel, just outside Dundalk, Co Louth, on a golf course. Comprising a mighty capstone of about 40 tonnes, it is typical of these portal tombs, formerly known as dolmens, of which there are approximately 180 in Ireland.
Others include Browneshill in Co Carlow, with a capstone believed to weigh about 100 tonnes and hailed as the heaviest in Europe. There is another at Legananny, Co Down, another at Ballynageeragh, Co Waterford; the Tirnony portal tomb is a fine example visible from the roadside at Tirnony, Co Derry, and most famous of all is the graceful, almost bird-like Poulnabrone portal tomb in the Burren, on the Corofin-Ballyvaughan Road.
Supported by three upright "legs", the Proleek monument is far more robust. It is a dramatic sight, inhabiting its own triangle of grass. It is, like the others, also something of an engineering feat. How did the ancients position such a huge capstone?
Admittedly much of the mystery and some of the drama have been lost now that we have to approach it not only by crossing the course, with the golfers busy at play, but also through a protective tunnel.
Legend maintains that a wish will be granted to anyone succeeding in landing a pebble to rest on the top of the capstone. I've landed the pebbles, but have had no luck with the wishes. For some visitors, it is a journey to be made more than once. Others have come to the hotel - and many golfers have played within yards of it - without ever knowing of the existence of the Proleek Dolmen, tucked away as it is in a corner.
On a recent visit, we arrived expecting to be yet again struck by its magnificence. Instead was the horror of discovering it extensively defaced by bright yellow paint. Even the national monuments sign warning against such criminal activity had been painted over.
Nearby, the golfers played on, oblivious to our discovery. We ran back to the hotel and informed the staff. The manager was alerted. He expressed shock, mentioned the stone had been recently cleaned and hurried off to inspect the damage. While it was a shame to encounter such vandalism, it was also heartening to witness the manager's concern about a monument the hotel is obviously determined to maintain and protect.
