CHINA:THE OLYMPIC Torch arrived in Beijing yesterday to a wildly enthusiastic welcome from flag-waving crowds, two days before the Games' opening ceremony.
There was a reminder of just how political this event has become when four activists were arrested for unfurling a Tibetan independence banner in the shadow of the Bird's Nest Olympic stadium.
The Olympics are supposed to showcase China's remarkable advances during three decades of economic reform, and to give the world the impression of a modernising superpower that will come to dominate regional, and ultimately, global politics.
But in the run-up, China has failed to shake off controversies over its human rights record. Public relations problems focused on its unwillingness to become less authoritarian for the duration of the Games, as it promised the International Olympic Committee it would seven years ago when it won the rights to stage the world's biggest sporting spectacle.
On the streets, where awareness of Tibetan independence calls and human rights issues is low, there is bafflement as to why the rest of the world has any problem with China staging the Olympics. People shout: "Go China, Go Olympics, Go Beijing!" The atmosphere is jubilant.
Yesterday, basketball superstar Yao Ming towered above crowds of well-wishers in front of the Forbidden City on Tiananmen Square as he carried the torch, while China's first man in space, Yang Liwei, also ran the relay.
Even Zhang Yimou, the film director coordinating Friday's opening ceremony, eschewed his usual black garb and arty demeanour to carry the flame a few paces.
"I haven't slept, I'm getting ready for the opening ceremony," he said, enigmatic as ever on the contents, though clues are gathering. Organisers said British singer Sarah Brightman and Liu Huan, China's most popular singer, will sing the main theme song for Zhang's big party. Apart from that detail, organisers are keeping as much under wraps about the event as possible, despite a controversial leak of rehearsals shown on Korean television last week.
In a spectacular breach of the tight security which has marked the final run-in, two British and two American activists from the Students for a Free Tibet campaign staged a protest by climbing an electricity pylon and unfurling two giant banners.
"We did this to highlight the Chinese government's use of the Beijing Olympics as a propaganda tool," said Iain Thom, one of the protesters. The banners read "One World, One Dream: Free Tibet" in English and "Tibet Will Be Free" in Chinese.
The Dalai Lama, exiled spiritual leader of the Tibetan people, who has repeatedly distanced himself from protests against the Games, yesterday sent his best wishes to China. "This is a moment of great pride to the 1.3 billion Chinese people," he said from his home in northern India. "I send my prayers and good wishes for the success of this event."
It was always possible that activists would use the Games to raise awareness of issues that the international rights community has with China, including its rule of Tibet; the arrests of dissidents; internet censorship; and gripes about Chinese foreign policy.
Other issues also remain unresolved. One member of Team Darfur, a coalition of athletes calling for action to resolve the conflict in Sudan, had his visa revoked, while pollution was back yesterday after days of clear weather, reawakening fears of a smoggy Olympics.
The first sporting competition of the Games took place yesterday, when Germany and Brazil drew 0-0 in the women's football tournament.