Paradise lost as Kenya's tourist trade faces ruin

The Mombasa coast was a prime target for terrorists looking for tourist blood

The Mombasa coast was a prime target for terrorists looking for tourist blood. Holidaymakers from the world over, ranging from hippy backpackers to the Hollywood jet-set, come to Kenya to dip their toes in the warm Indian Ocean waters, or lounge under a coconut tree.

Israelis are no exception.

The Paradise Hotel, 20 kms north of Mombasa, is one of many hotels that dot the white-sanded beaches stretching from Tanzania to the south to Somalia in the north.

A week on the coast is a classic stop-off after a dusty tour of the up-country safari parks, such as the Masai Mara or Samburu National Park. These days most tourists pay a fleeting visit only to Mombasa town - a heaving, sweaty port that has slowly crumbled in the way of many Kenyan towns in recent years.

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The main thoroughfare, Moi Ave, is lined with shabby shop fronts, while the old city has charm but is lacking modern tourist facilities. The road leading to Nairobi, ruined by years of poor maintenance and abuse from thundering lorries headed for the African interior, is a virtual assault course of crater-like potholes in places.

Instead most tourists are shuttled straight to their beach resorts - some upmarket, such as Hemingway's, named after the rugged writer who celebrated east Africa's beauty; or to one of the plethora of mid-market hotels to cater for the package tourist market.

According to reports, the Paradise Hotel was both owned and mostly frequented by Israelis. This is not unusual.

Some nationalities have practically colonised various locations - the Mombasa beaches are dominated by Germans while further up the coast in Malindi, tourist workers speak Italian as easily as they do English.

Near the Somali border, the island of Lamu has become the haunt of down-at-heel hippies and the international glitterati.

Princess Caroline of Monaco, whose family owns several properties on the strictly Muslim island, is a regular visitor. Her husband caused a furore almost two years ago when he got into a brawl with a local nightclub owner, also a German.

But although it should be one of Kenya's greatest cash cows, coast tourism has been badly hit in recent years. Politically inspired riots south of Mombasa in the run up to the 1997 elections, broadcast around the world on TV, dealt a blow to the industry.

That damage has been slowly compounded in the years since by Kenya's increasing reputation for lawlessness. Nairobi has become known for its thievery and carjackings, earning it the unenviable moniker "Nairobbery".

Then the September 11th attacks brought the tourist business practically to its knees.

Before yesterday, several coast hotels had closed, or were only open on a seasonal basis. Now, like Bali, Kenya's tourist industry is facing ruin. Israeli visitors are certain to stay away; other nationalities will probably follow.

The brochures often depict Kenya's beaches as a deserted paradise. Soon the image may come painfully true.