Pearls among wine

IT'S quite a mouthful, Languedoc-Roussillon

IT'S quite a mouthful, Languedoc-Roussillon. Of all the regions in the world that you might feel tempted to explore with your friendly, local, wine merchant, this one is a cumbersome tongue-twister, compared to the neat simplicity of Napa, say, or the poetry of Chianti. It's also awkward geographically - a vast, vague slab of south-east France, sprawling from the Rhone down to the Pyrenees and out from the Massif Central to the Med. One thing I've noticed, nevertheless, is the number of surprisingly well-priced, drinkable wines we're seeing from Languedoc-Roussillon. Increasingly, it's a tasty mouthful.

It was Oz Clarke, in Dublin last "autumn promoting two newbooks, who first made me take serious note of the region associated for so long with rubbishy French plonk. "It produces six times as, much wine as Australia," he said. "Ten years ago I'd have said 99 per cent of that wine was hopeless. Now I'd say only 90 per cent is hopeless." When pressed on whether that judgment wasn't still pretty damning, he turned the argument round the other way. Look, they're producing 10 times more good wine than they used to. That's the equivalent of discovering nearly two-thirds of an entirely new Australia!"

Since then, our local Languedoc expert, Redmond O'Hanlon, tells me it was he who tipped Oz off in the first place. Wine experts have this way of tussling with each other for space in the credits. No matter. The important thing is that in the past 10 to 15 years, wine-making in the Midi has been transformed. Quality with quantity.

There have been two, phases to the revolution two distinct approaches. First came the drive to introduce new technology, to produce clean, fruity versions of the popular varietals wine-drinkers had been taught by the New World to lap up - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and so on. Robert Skalli was the first to show what could be done with his Fortant de France range - now coming to a host of Irish supermarkets and wine shops from his massive hightech plants in Sete. Often, it's not just a case of New World style but direct New World influence, with Australian involvement in major enterprises like Chais Baumiere and Domaine Virginie.

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What's reassuring, however, in a world where too many wines already taste distressingly alike, is that there is a new emphasis on local character, which the varied soils and climatic conditions. of this huge French suntrap can easily provide. A multiplicity of grape varieties, traditional to the south, is a further guarantee of gutsy, distinctive flavours.

Although white wines are catching up in terms of appeal and subtlety, and there's no doubt that many roses are outstanding, it's in the red zone, to my mind, that the main excitement lies. Besides the obvious Coteaux do Languedoc and Cotes de Roussillon, there are other appellations in the region producing worthwhile red wines, including Corbieres Faugeres, Fitou and Minervois. Not to mention the mammoth Vin de Pays category, where 50 much of the experimental action is.

To do Languedoc-Roussillon full credit, it also produces splendid sparkling Blanquette de Limoux (remember Domaine de Aigle, our recent sparkler of, the week?) and glorious sweet wines like Rivesaltes and Banyuls. Is any other wine region so complete? I know where I'm going on holiday next summer.

RICH SOUTHERN REDS

La Serre Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc 1994 (Pettits, £4.99). For their Jubilee label, celebrating 50 years in business, the group claiming to be Ireland's, largest independent grocers scoured the world before settling on a pair of stars from the Languedoc. The Cabernet, already mentioned in our listing of summer bargains, is richly fruity but with plenty of body. Outstanding for a fiver. See Bottle of the Week.

St Michael Domaine Mandeville Merlot Vin de Pays d'Oc 1995 (Marks & Spencer, £4.99). Don't be put off by the lurid pink label. This is as good a Merlot as I've tasted at the price (and better than many a pound or two more) as we might expect of the man whose St Michael Domaine Mandeville Viognier was a 1995 White Wine of the Year in the International Challenge, while his Chardonnay also scooped a medal.

Arnaud de Villeneuve Cotes de Roussillon 1994 (Redmonds, Vintry, Bennetts Howth, Lord Mayor's Swords, McCambridges Galway and other outlets, £5.99). Selected as a perfect barbecue partner a couple of weeks ago, this is a good example from the Roussillon side of today's territory - rich and spicy with a nice savoury edge.

Chateau Pech-Celeyran Coteaux du Languedoc la Clape 1994 (Findlaters, Redmonds, Bolands, Raheny Wine, Cellai, Old Stand Mullingar, O Keefe's Kilkenny, about £7). A favourite of Oz Clarke's and just about anybody else who tries it - preferably with a late of the robustly flavoured, Mediterranean style food that most of these wines are made far. Great gutsy flavours, including herbs that make you dream of the South of France.

Domaine Clavel Coteaux du Languedoc la Mejanelle 1994 (Wines Direct, 1800 579579, £6.75). A substantial big southerner - dark red fruit flavours, laced. with vanilla, spice and a hint of dried figs, backed up with hefty but not too harsh tannins. Another super food wine.

Chateau Saint-Auriol Corbieres 1993 (Searsons, £6.95). A really appealing, concentrated red wine from the Languedoc's most significant appellation, with earthy, her baceous aromas and sweet, jammy fruit flavours.

Fortant de France `Collection' Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc 1992 (Molloys Nutgrove and other outlets, about £8.50). Robert Skalli, the major player who woke the Languedoc up to its potential, has to be in here somewhere - especially now that he's added a quality range to his portfolio. Last week the Chardonnay was praised by wine lecturer Catherine Griffith; this week I suggest fans of Australian Cabernets try this one, laden with sweet cassis and vanilla a new Old World wine, very much in the New World style.

Chateau de Flaugergues, Coteaux du Languedoc La Mejanelle, 1994 (Dunnes Stores, £8.49). If this one hadn't already been Bottle of the Week (in March), it might well, be one today. Unlike the last wine, it's unmistakably from the Midi - a blend of Syrah and Grenache with intense flavours of dark fruits, liquorice and spice, and good tannic structure. Real class: no wonder it won a Guide Hachette Golden Grape award.

Mas de Daumas Gassac 1990 or 1991 (many good independent wine merchants including O'Briens, Miichells, price can vary from £11-£15). If you have a few more pounds to spend on discovering the South, of France, this is where to go. Aime Guibert set out from scratch, not much more than 20 years ago, to make wines of the nighest quality - and succeeded to such a degree that he is regarded as the Languedoc's leading light. His Cabernet Sauvignon-based red is dense, complex and delicious - but unless you want to keep it, don't buy a vintage younger than 1990 or 1991.

DESSERT WINE

Banyuls Rimage Cuvee Regis Boucabeille 1988 (Mitchells, £12.60). If I were ever to have a wine-box soapbox I'd try to convert the drinking world to Banyuls, from Roussillon's southern edge - one of the world's most under-appreciated dessert wines, and one of the very few that's a dream with chocolate. It's dark, almost port-like in its richness and different. Ah decadence.