From Manolos and Jimmy Choos to Crocs and Hunter wellingtons, it was a decade of extremes for high-street fashion, writes
DEIRDRE McQUILLAN
2000
Barely two years running, the sartorial sensation that was the US sitcom Sex and the Citycontinued to dominate fashion trends. Sarah Jessica Parker became a household name and Manolos entered the lexicon as a generic term for sexy stilettos. The series endorsed the idea of conspicuous consumption amongst 30-something urban females and drove handbag sales skywards. The mix of high and low fashion and of inexpensive vintage finds with designer labels became a fashion mantra.
In the UK, Posh Spice made her catwalk debut in February. Teens were targeted as the new affluent fashion spenders and bared their midriffs aping rolemodels such as Britney Spears. Prada's bowling bag and Fendi's baguette spearheaded the "it" bag trend. Stylist Katie Grand established the influential art meets fashion magazine, Pop.
2001
The “war on terrorism” inspired a wave of military style dress on the catwalks which rebounded on the streets.
What Not to Wear, the BBC's makeover reality show, inflicted fashion gurus Trinny Woodhall and Susannah Considine on a gullible but willing public. It became an overnight success as millions of viewers learned about shapes that flattered less than perfect bodies. The Strokes' skinny drainpipe jeans launched the decade's most enduring trend. Tom Ford debuted his first collection for YSL to disappointment. Everybody copied Carrie's elaborate fabric corsages in SATC.
2002
Yummy mummies made headlines this year when celebrities such as Liz Hurley, Sarah Jessica Parker, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss all became mothers and propelled cool maternity wear into the news. Earl denims became the must-have jeans while Juicy Couture made its debut in Los Angeles. Founded by an actress and a costume designer with $200, a year later annual sales of their zany velour tracksuits topped $50 million dollars. Vuitton, Prada, Burberry and Chanel opened big luxury stores in New York each vying to be more architecturally interesting than the other and we all learnt about Zaha Hadid. Bags got bigger and heavier and so did the prices; Mulberry’s Bayswater became one of the most sought after of the decade.
In London John Rocha received the CBE and Philip Treacy’s exhibition When Philip Met Isabella opened at the British Design Centre. The brash, cheap foam clogs called Crocs became global bestsellers with 100 million pairs sold within the next seven years.
2003
Fashion driven by celebrity endorsement reached new heights this year with Cate Blanchett, Liv Tyler, Jennifer Lopez and others promoting designers such as Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan, Versace and Marc Jacobs. Madonna was photographed for Gap, Nicole Kidman became the face of Chanel, while the goth looks of Kelly Osbourne with black nail varnish, vintage sunglasses, pale makeup and Converse runners spread everywhere. David and Victoria Beckham modelled Dolce & Gabbana’s collections, wearing it at the MTV awards in Los Angeles.
Marc Jacobs used the designs of Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton which spawned a rake of fakes. Gisele Bundchen and Beyonce made the Brazilian rubber flip flops called Havaianas best sellers. Ugg sheepskin boots from Australia popular with surfers became a trend in California. And we all know what happened next.
2004
Style icon Sienna Miller was everywhere this year, her posh hippy chic and trailing maxi skirts setting instant street trends. The mood in fashion was more girly in spirit with a flouncy femininity contrasting with monochrome chic. Allegra Versace hit the headlines when she inherited a 50 per cent share of the Versace empire and the crowds had to be held back when, in the first of a number of designer/high street collaborations, Karl Lagerfeld's collection for H&M caused a stampede in London's Oxford Street. Orla Kiely won the UK Fashion Exports Award, the Irish TatlerWoman of the Year Award and was nominated for Best Accessory Designer at the British Style Awards.
2005
When Kate Moss stepped out in shorts and Hunter wellingtons at Glastonbury, she ignited a trend that transformed the fortunes of a small Dundee factory in Scotland. At the same time, Pete Doherty in ramshackle trilby hat, ripped t-shirts and narrow jeans became the new male style icon.
The dress of the year and arguably of the decade was the Galaxy by Roland Mouret which generated millions of knock offs.
In Paris, Israeli designer Alber Elbaz revamped Lanvin and attracted high-profile clients like Nicole Kidman for his spare, feminine dresses and silk ribbon chokers.
Shorts worn with tights debuted at Alexander McQueen’s show in Paris and were instantly copied.
2006
This was a fashion year dominated by two stories; the hysteria over underweight models and the video footage of Kate Moss snorting cocaine in a London music studio. It was also a year in which Rachel Zoe, the Hollywood stylist known for oversized shades, oversized caftans and oversized bags became one of the most powerful women in fashion with celebrity clients such as Keira Knightley, Lindsay Lohan and Nicole Richie. Burberry and Chanel cancelled contracts with Moss, but by the end of the year she had risen again and was signed up to design a collection for Topshop. A new fashion phenomenon arrived on TV – in the form of Gok Wan, stylist turned presenter with his penchant for "bangers". How to Look Good Nakedwas an instant hit. Fashion started to get emotional.
2007
Three thousand people stormed Primark when it opened in London, knocking doors off their hinges and putting two members of staff in hospital.
Anya Hindmarch’s eco bag “I am not a Plastic Bag” went on sale in Sainsburys in April and all 20,000 of the £5 bags sold out within an hour. In Dublin, queues formed in the early morning to buy them in BTs and the bags were selling later for €200 on eBay.
Agyness Deyn, the 21-year-old model became a new style icon while Christian Dior celebrated 60 years in fashion, Valentino 45 and Ralph Lauren 40. The exhibition on Kylie Minogue at the V&A attracted a record 271,000 people during its four-month run.
In London, Isabella Blow died in May. Philip Treacy, her protégée, was awarded an OBE by Queen Elizabeth.
2008
Carla Bruni’s arrival in London in March dressed demurely in Dior heralded the arrival of a new style icon, to be followed by an even greater one, Michelle Obama in the US who endeared herself to millions when she confessed to buying J Crew online.
In June one of the most brilliant stars of 20th century fashion, Yves St Laurent, died at the age of 71. Later in the year Victoria Beckham launched herself as a serious fashion designer at New York fashion week and the vogue for trenchcoats reached new heights when Serena Williams sported a mini version at Wimbledon. The terrifyingly high platform stiletto became the season’s imperative.
2009
The groundbreaking event of the fashion year was Alexander McQueen’s show in Paris which was streamed live on the internet, but 29,000 hits in one second made it crash when Lady Gaga twittered that her new single would make its debut on the show.
Social media – Twitter, Facebook, YouTube, blogging – became, almost overnight, obligatory ways for fashion brands to connect with their public. D&G were quick to spot the opportunities by giving frontline seats at their show to four fashion bloggers.
Jimmy Choo's collaboration with H&M caused queues at 19 stores in November; two days later 1,200 items were offered on eBay. The September Issue, the documentary on US Vogue profiled its powerful editor Anna Wintour.
The decade ended in a shower of sequins, studs and hard metal . . . decadent?
