Up The Semillon Scale

Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon 1999 (Superquinn; Molloys Liquor Stores; Bennetts, Howth; Londis, Malahide; Costcutter, Taylor…

Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon 1999 (Superquinn; Molloys Liquor Stores; Bennetts, Howth; Londis, Malahide; Costcutter, Taylor's Lane; Egans, Drogheda and other outlets, £6.99 - £7.49). This ripe, fruity crowd-pleaser is apparently Australia's bestselling Semillon. Hunter, eat your heart out. Plenty of citrussy freshness; a slightly off-dry finish.

Tesco Hunter Valley Semillon 1999 (Tesco, £7.99). A Bottle of the Week in its previous vintage, this one holds its appeal. Light and citrussy, it springs to life on the palate with a tiny touch of honey, but the finish is bracing and bone dry. Good value.

Canepa Winemaker's Selection Oak-aged Semillon, Rapel 1998 (many Super Valus/Centra, Roches Stores, some Superquinns; O'Donovans, Cork and other off-licences countrywide, usually about £7.99). This oaked Chilean is very different in style but certainly worth trying. Fresh, grapefruit notes, creamy length and a spicy finish.

Bethany Barrel-fermented Semillon, Barossa Valley, 1997 (O'Briens Fine Wines, £9.75). The heat of Australia's Barossa Valley speeds maturity: this super Semillon from 80-year-old vines already has that smoky, toasty, lemon curd character that comes after a decade in the cooler Hunter. Ripe fruit and French oak make for big, big flavours - but the body feels elegant.

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Grant Burge Zerk Semillon, Barossa, 1998 (Bird Flanagan, Rialto; Village Vines, Howth; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Bourkes Fine Wines, Cabinteely; O'Keeffes, Kilkenny; Kellys, Longford; Domaine, Ennis and many other outlets, usually £10.99 - £11.49). Here, the weight is as substantial as the flavours: this is a mouth-filling, complex wine from 60-year-old vines with a dollop of spicy oak. A blockbuster.

Mountpleasant Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon, McWilliams, 1994 (Martins, Fairview; McHughs, Kilbarrack; Raheny Wine Cellar; Kellys , Malahide; DeVine Wine Shop, Castleknock; O'Donovans, Cork and other outlets, usually about £11.99). My favourite by a mile. See Bottle of the Week.

James Halliday Griffith Botrytis Semillon 1996 (Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Bunch of Grapes, Donabate; RyanVine, Navan; O'Keeffes, Kilkenny and other outlets, half bottle about £8.99). Here's Australian Semillon in another guise, as an unctuous dessert wine. A glassful of luscious apricot and date nectar - and it's not cloying.