Domaine du Rey Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne, 1997 (Searsons, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock, Karwigs Wine Warehouse Carrigaline, Geraghtys Fine Wines Carlow, about £5.50).
A fruity white from south-west France which offers tongue-pricking freshness along with ripe peach and pineapple flavours. A lovely, lively aperitif.
Dauzan La Vergne, Montravel, 1996 (Molloys, McCabes Merrion, Vintry Rathgar, Sweeneys Dorset Street Fairview, Jus de Vine Portmarnock and other outlets, usually £8.99).
From an estate which isn't 100 per cent organic but coming pretty close to it, Sauvignon and Semillon combine with oak maturation to provide a smooth, full-bodied wine with undeniable class.
Bonterra Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Fetzer, 1996 (gradually spreading to many good independent off-licences, also in Oddbins outlets, usually about £10.99).
California's leading organic producer delivers a Chardonnay with more innate appeal than many of its rivals. This is a big, serious wine which needs food.