Whither the nation - again - and is it far from the beach?

On days like these, when the sun is shining and heaven is a firm Cornetto, the same old question begs our attention and threatens…

On days like these, when the sun is shining and heaven is a firm Cornetto, the same old question begs our attention and threatens to spoil the holiday fun: whither the nation? Maybe not. But they've been asking this at summer schools around the country for decades now. Somebody has to.

Every year, different themes are chosen, but the general issue up for debate essentially stays the same. Here, for example, at the MacGill Summer School and Arts Week in the Donegal town of Glenties, the theme is "The Soul of Ireland - Issues of Society, Culture and Identity".

Or put another way, whither the nation? (And how far away exactly is it from the beach?) Yesterday morning's session in the Highlands Hotel was entitled "Coping with Effluence". Sorry, that's a flashback from the county councillors' annual conference. This one was "Coping with Affluence". Yes, please.

Panellists Prof John Fitzgerald of the ESRI, Mary Finan, chairwoman of the RTÉ authority, and Sr Stanislaus Kennedy of Focus Ireland all delivered thought-provoking contributions on the topic. However, it was Sr Stan who applied some cooling reality to the subject by pointing out that there are a lot of people coping with poverty.

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Armed with some sobering statistics, it was a pity no Government representative was there to put up a defence. But in these cautious times, not even worthy summer schools escape the interfering hand of Government advisers. Verbal dust-ups between ministers and political/ideological opponents were once a cherished feature of these talkfests. Now, should a Minister deign to travel, their acceptance is sometimes accompanied by requests to view the other speakers' scripts in advance, and one suspects Ministers now arrive feeling relatively confident that nobody at the top table will give them a rough time.

It's often up to members of the audience to challenge the feeling of consensus after the main speakers have spoken.

On yesterday's early theme, a speaker challenged the negative approach of the organisers. What exactly is the problem with affluence? Why is it something that we have to "cope" with? While there are many inequalities in society that need to be looked at, he argued that at least there is money now to go about addressing them.

On last Sunday's opening night, Minister for Finance Brian Cowen shared top billing with Northern Ireland Secretary Peter Hain. After racing through his uneventful script in a perfunctory manner, Biffo then raced from the room in the middle of the Secretary of State's speech. Turned out he had to catch the Government jet at Donegal airport before nightfall or he would turn into a pumpkin.

No such sense of urgency from Minister for Justice Michael McDowell, who spoke on Monday on the theme of immigration, integration and cultural identity. He drove up from his modest little holiday mansion in Roscommon, having finally gained the keys after a minimum of fuss, court cases and gunfire. The most famous redhead in Cabinet looks like he's been enjoying the sun at his lakeside retreat. "Mad dogs and Englishmen" came to mind when his russet face materialised through the haze, auguring well for an eruption at the microphone later on.

We prayed his hosts would ply him with wine over dinner.

Unfortunately, it seems the heat in the local school hall got to Mr McDowell and he remained on best behaviour all night, content to stick to his favourite pastime of criticising the republican movement.

There was just one alarming moment during his visit to Glenties. Thanks to the MacGill Summer School, beds are at a premium in the town. When he arrived, we overheard one of his advisers asking: "Where exactly is our B&B?" Poor Michael, and him a senior counsel from Ranelagh and president of the PDs with a second, modestly lavish home in Roscommon. Thank God they had a last minute cancellation in the Highlands Hotel.

Unfortunately, Mr McDowell didn't get to sleep in Meryl Streep's room - a brass plaque outside the door marks her stay in September 1998. The hotel is yet to decide on whether to put up a plaque to commemorate Michael's visit. We say no, because he didn't start a row.

Given the unbearable heat during the sessions, and the lure of Donegal's wonderful beaches, it is a testament to the loyalty of MacGill regulars and the rigour of the programme that so many have been turning up for the debates. It can be heavy going, though. Tonight panellists will be wondering if we are witnessing "the death throes of the Irish language" Green Party president Trevor Sargent will be among those taking part in the discussion. Earlier in the day, Fianna Fáil Senator Martin Mansergh will be among those asking, "Have the ideals of the men and women of 1916 any relevance in 2006?" You'd need a lie-down after all that.

Friday's final session should meet with the Michael McDowell's approval. On Monday, he was all for "reconciling the orange and green". This will be discussed by the SDLP's Alasdair McDonnell, Sinn Féin's Martin McGuinness, the UUP's Tom Elliot and "a representative of the DUP". Who could that be? Denis Bradley, former priest and formerly of the Northern Ireland police authority might be a dark horse for the slot. After his "Rome is strangling us to death" remarks during an earlier session, he might just meet with Big Ian's approval.