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Sir, – I didn’t expect Corinna Hardgrave’s latest review, (“Peploe’s restaurant review: No trends and fads, just confident French bistro fare that keeps the patrons coming back”, Food, October 10th) to have such a melancholic aftertaste.

I found myself thinking less about the fine French fare and more about the implied icy treatment of middle-aged women who are banished to “Siberia” while the “balayage brigade” enjoy the prime seats.

Has she (like I) recently been affected by watching Demi Moore’s The Substance? – Yours, etc,

AOIFE GEARY,

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Stoneybatter,

Dublin 7.