Hay-baked celery root

Sir, – I am writing in connection with your Magazine's seeming obsession with articles about food. Last week's edition had no fewer that 10 pages devoted to food and drink (September 24th). Every week we read increasingly desperate attempts to give a new spin to the food we eat. However, the nadir of pretentious guff was surely reached last Saturday with the feature "The Ox meets the Rabbit in New York", with its five-course menu which included such larder staples as gomasio-cured fish, pollen, hay-baked celery root, ink, hops, smoked potato, etc. This five-course meal, we were told, was to be accompanied by five spirit-based cocktails, but omitted to tell us that our palettes would long have been anaesthetised and unable to appreciate whatever we were eating.

Please can we return to what this country produces best – the good and locally produced ingredients that have long been showcased in such outstanding restaurants as The Tannery in Dungarvan and Ballymaloe House, to mention just two.

And another plea – could we please, please, have no more wedding features, which are no doubt fascinating if you know the happy couple, but otherwise are a complete bore. – Yours, etc,

ERIC SWEENEY,

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Tramore,

Co Waterford.