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Saddle up and head out west

Limerick Greenway is a great way for groups, friends and families to head outdoors, soak up sweeping landscapes and smell summer in the air

Ardagh stationhouse, just visible beyond the railway arch on Limerick Greenway. Photograph: Brian Arthur
Ardagh stationhouse, just visible beyond the railway arch on Limerick Greenway. Photograph: Brian Arthur

There’s a quiet revolution taking place in the Mid-West. Weekenders are taking to bikes to travel Limerick Greenway in huge numbers with over a million visits to its scenic setting since it reopened in July 2021.

The 40km route was at one time the Limerick to Kerry railway line. The old track has been transformed into a surprisingly smooth route which is traffic-free and fully accessible for walkers, hikers, bikers and those of all abilities.

The West Limerick route is equally appealing to serious cyclists as it is to families and weekending groups. It’s a journey that is having a big moment with 20-somethings who want to get more out of their weekend away with friends.

With its lush farmland, rolling hills, and sheets of green, the scenery is a feast for the senses. The itinerary also boasts terrific and easily accessible local cuisine, a rich history to explore, and a sense of being on the right side of climate action, which all adds up to the perfect weekend escape.

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So, get on your bicycle - electric or otherwise - and prepare to feel exhilarated. There are many bike hiring options to choose from along Limerick Greenway, so owning your own high nelly isn’t a necessity.

Picnicking at Limerick Greenway Hub in Barnagh. Photograph: Brian Arthur
Picnicking at Limerick Greenway Hub in Barnagh. Photograph: Brian Arthur

Places to stay

There are many hotels and inns dotted along the way to suit every group and budget.

Situated at the start of Limerick Greenway, Rathkeale House Hotel has recently undergone a refurbishment and holds 26 bedrooms. Set in an old orchard, this family-run boutique establishment oozes charm and character.

The grounds are beautifully maintained and if your group can nab a spot in the wooden gazebo for dinner, surrounded by a rose-scented garden, you will find it’s the perfect place to say goodbye to the day.

Gastronomic feast

West Limerick offers a wide variety of delicious delights to suit every palate. Along your journey, you can indulge in freshly baked bread, aromatic coffees, and creamy pints.

Abbeyfeale is home to a selection of charming local shops. One standout is An Siopa Milseán, which sells the best sweets and chocolate, as well as Badger and Dodo coffee. If you’re in town on a Friday morning the farmer’s market serves up a wide choice of savoury and sweet ideas to create your own picnic. There are goodies aplenty along the way. Marguerite’s bakery in Newcastle West, renowned for its fresh cream éclairs, is definitely worth a stop.

Additionally, an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars are available to satisfy your hunger and quench your thirst.

Limerick Greenway is a great way to get outdoors, travel as a group, with the family or get to spend one-on-one cycle time. Photograph: Don Moloney
Limerick Greenway is a great way to get outdoors, travel as a group, with the family or get to spend one-on-one cycle time. Photograph: Don Moloney

A personalised route

The beauty of Limerick Greenway is you can choose how far you want to travel. You can always return for more or try a different route.

The starting point is Rathkeale and Limerick Greenway ends in Abbeyfeale, where it seamlessly links to the new 10km route to Listowel, Co Kerry. There is a plethora of delightful villages along the way, each with their own personality and history, including Ardagh, Newcastle West, Barnagh and Templeglantine, so you can stop wherever catches your fancy.

Riverside in Rathkeale

Rathkeale is a town steeped in history. With the River Deel running through the town, it is picturesque and soothing, with part of the route running along the riverbank.

It is also home to the Irish Palatine Experience, which is situated in the renovated railway station and tells the tale of German settlers who came to Ireland in 1709. From here it’s a 10-kilometre cycle to Ardagh.

Take the scenic route to your destination with maps along the way to help suggest routes and detours, here at Desmond Castle, Newcastle West. Photograph: Brian Arthur
Take the scenic route to your destination with maps along the way to help suggest routes and detours, here at Desmond Castle, Newcastle West. Photograph: Brian Arthur

Detour to dine on a classic pub combo in Ardagh

Along the route from Rathkeale to Ardagh are several beautifully hand-carved bridges set against the backdrop of the tranquil scenery.

A short detour will take you to the Ardagh Station House which is standing since 1868 and was originally part of the Limerick to Tralee trainline. It has been tastefully restored to its former beauty. You can stop for a creamy pint or a toastie, featuring the famous Limerick ham, at Foley’s at the Pike. From here it’s only a four-kilometre cycle to Newcastle West.

Newcastle West is a buzzing market town with plenty of stylish boutique shopping. Photograph: Brian Arthur
Newcastle West is a buzzing market town with plenty of stylish boutique shopping. Photograph: Brian Arthur

Shop and enjoy the craic in Newcastle West

This vibrant and buzzing market town is one of Limerick Greenway’s highlights for groups. There’s stylish boutique shopping, including Kimono Boutique which gained national recognition when it was featured on RTÉ’s Frock Finders. Ailish Mullane established the boutique in 2003, and since then it has become one of the most innovative and creative fashion destinations in the Mid-West.

Newcastle West also has excellent bars. Dan Cronin’s is famous for its chowder if you fancy a hearty lunch. If overnighting, the late-night entertainment might lure you back.

See spectacular scenery and try throwing pots in Barnagh

The journey to Barnagh is about 10 kilometres. This section of the cycle route features the most challenging uphill stretch but reaching the peak rewards you with spectacular views of the countryside. At an altitude of around 164 meters above sea level you can, on a clear day, see panoramic vistas of counties Limerick, Clare, Cork, and Kerry.

Barnagh is a notable place to stop for those seeking creative and enjoyable activities. Break the journey at The Painted Pot art studio, which caters to visitors of any age and skill level, and offers clay sculpting, pottery wheel throwing or painting classes. It welcomes groups and provides a relaxing environment to unwind or get out of the rain.

Platform 22 café boasts a large patio area that offers stunning views. Its menu features a range of options that highlight local producers, including vegetarian and gluten-free choices.

Tap into the music scene in Templeglantine

Templeglantine is famous for traditional Irish music, and just a short four-kilometre cycle from Barnagh. The Devon Inn Hotel often holds trad sessions and live music, drawing fans from far and wide. It would be remiss not to kick back, stay awhile and enjoy this unique scene.

Nature-watch in the woods

The gentle nine-kilometre leg from Templeglantine to Abbeyfeale is extremely tranquil and peaceful. The Tullig Wood area, replanted with beech and ash trees, is something of a wildlife habitat. Lambs frolic in the adjoining fields, some curious cows may survey your progress and if you keep your eyes peeled you might just see a hare or pheasant in the long grass.

Breakfast at leisure in Abbeyfeale

You can begin or end your Limerick Greenway journey in Abbeyfeale. The town is just three kilometres from the Co Kerry border and boasts a fascinating display of early to mid-twentieth-century architecture, featuring a unique blend of Celtic interlace motifs and classical architectural styles. This combination was heavily influenced by contemporary politics and was an attempt to weave the national identity into building structures.

Leen’s Hotel is an excellent place to layover. There’s bike storage for those traveling with their own wheels, and it also offers a bike rental service which means you can breakfast at leisure and amble down to procure your pedals after.

From here it’s a short jaunt down to the Co Kerry border and a whole new landscape.

To find out more about Limerick Greenway, possible itineraries, routes and places to stop, click here.