Even in the best of hotels, the food offering can often feel like an afterthought. Not so at The Club Hotel, where it’s the main draw thanks to a dynamic partnership between two top name chefs who are using the best of Irish produce. As the hotel celebrates one year in business (with a very special offering to customers, but more of that at the end of the article) Derry Clarke, formerly of legendary Michelin-starred eatery L’Ecrivain, and James Sheridan, who ran three iterations of famed restaurant Canteen with his wife Soizic, are reflecting on their success.
“This is a restaurant where you wouldn’t think you are in a hotel,” Clarke explains. “It’s hard for hotels to do good food usually because they are big and they have a lot going on. Whereas here we really concentrate on the food and that’s the way it’s been since it opened.”
Clarke says they have spent the last 12 months devising and delivering a menu “with something for everyone”. He believes the “important partnership” between himself and Sheridan has been a huge element in its success.
With a relaxed and jovial dynamic, the pair work well together. Sheridan does a lot of the cooking, Clarke is an ideas man and loves artistically plating up the food. He’s also not adverse to scrubbing a pot, so is happy to get stuck in on every level.
“There is great mutual respect between myself and James, he is a great chef in his own right and did marvellous things at Canteen,” Clarke says. “In some partnerships there can be friction or it can be a clash of mentality and styles but we are very similar cooks and easily bounce ideas off each other.”
Sheridan agrees, saying the partnership has worked out even better than he thought it would. “I have always seen myself as a cook, because I truly love cooking,” says the young chef. “I love cooking as close to the earth as possible, but running your own restaurant, where you have to be the central character, takes you further and further away from that.”
A change of scene - and promise of being back in the kitchen - came with the offer from The Club. “When I saw that Derry was involved, I could immediately see the potential synergies,” Sheridan says. “Derry can be the face of the operation - he is so personable and a great guy. And from a kitchen dynamic point of view, I thought this would be a great way to attract a really good team. Plus I was so impressed with the whole set-up and the energy behind it.”
Indeed they have put together a great team, with high staff retention rates. Clarke cares about the young up and coming chefs, and “there is no shouting in this kitchen”, he says without pause.
Twelve months on from opening, their initial hunches have translated into reality. The chef pairing is working magic in the kitchen, and the food on the plate really reflects that. Clarke says he loves the fact he can make the more “cheffy” food but also burgers and pizza for the kids, or for anyone that fancies it.
The quality of these ingredients is key. Clarke says the kitchen is focused on sourcing beef and poultry from the best of local suppliers and they also work closely with local farmers to ensure their fruit and veg is both seasonal and sustainable. “The raw materials are key. We buy what’s fresh from the market so we can add different dishes day to day; for example, while we had venison on for the last few months, it’s now coming off and we are adding spring lamb. We like to keep things fresh and interesting.”
Sheridan agrees. “It’s about getting the most out of your ingredients and we are surrounded by the best ones here. We have brilliant local poultry and beef and we are delivering it as close to where it is from with minimal intervention.” He adds that, in the hotel, the same ethos carries through breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Some old favourites from L’Ecrivain have made the journey to Clarke’s new kitchen. “We brought a few things, such as our famous brown bread, the Guinness and buttermilk bread. James has brought a few of his favourites too.” Also making the journey have been former regulars from both L’Ecrivain and Canteen. “There are familiar faces here every day,” laughs Sheridan.
Clarke admits he is enjoying the freedom of cooking outside the restrictive boundaries - and associated pressure - of a Michelin-starred restaurant. “I couldn’t do things I wanted to do,” he says. “I couldn’t make chips, and people love chips! Here we do a really, really good steak and fries. And we have the freedom to shake up the menu on a regular basis. Sunday lunch is a big family day and we have pizzas, burgers, fish and chips plus the really nice food - this means the kids are getting what they want but so are the adults,” he notes.
Afternoon tea has been a hit with the clientele and again, everything is made in-house. Pastry chef Elizabeth Darby crafts the sweet treats, which include a chocolate fondant “to die for” and a “Horse Choux” that gives a nod to its location in the heart of the Thoroughbred County.
While there are locals popping into the restaurant every week, the success of the hotel shows people are willing to travel to dine in style, Clarke notes. “We see lots of couples coming here from all over the country for a date night. They can check in, relax and have a drink and have a really nice meal and a nice breakfast the following morning too. They all say they feel like they’ve been away longer than one night.”
Every guest gets a welcome glass of bubbles at the 50-bed hotel, which opened its doors in March 2023. Offering state-of-the-art modern rooms with comfy beds, smart TVs and organic Voya toiletries for pampering, it’s no wonder it was named as one of Ireland’s 50 best Places to Stay last year. For those who came for the food, they can have this via complimentary room service and enjoy it on their private balcony overlooking the paddocks. The Barn, the hotel’s dedicated event space, is enjoying back to back bookings, offering a unique venue for a conference, party or wedding. And coming soon is a brand new thermal spa that will embrace the surrounding countryside, offering a truly back to nature experience just 30 minutes from Dublin.
Meanwhile, the kitchen will continue to evolve under Clarke’s and Sheridan’s stewardship. “There’s lots we want to do in the future and we will continue to listen to our customers,” Sheridan says.
Clarke agrees. “People want to eat real food. We don’t cook for ourselves, we cook for the guests - I think that’s crucial.”
To celebrate one year in business, The Club Hotel at Goff’s is offering 1,000 rooms at €200, including an overnight stay, full breakfast and three-course meal in the restaurant.