Culinaria: a food column from chef JP McMahon

Cooking should always be emotional, and it should always give you pleasure. On days off from cooking in my restaurants, I like to indulge myself in some of nature’s most comforting foods.

I sometimes go to the local butchers and pick up a few pork chops. On the bone, of course. If it’s a Saturday, I can pick some up free range ones at the St Nicholas Market, with beautiful fat marbled through them. But I trust my local butcher, and even if it doesn’t have the free range label, I know it will be well reared and of a high standard. I never buy meat in the supermarket, only because I can’t find a proper butcher to talk to.

At home, I take the chops out of the fridge and let them stand at room temperature before cooking. Not for too long – about 20 minutes. This will help the pork relax when it hits the hot pan and let its rich fat caramelise beautifully.

I add enough oil to cover the pan (on a medium-high heat) and season the pork chops with some fine sea salt. In the pan they sizzle and crackle. Make sure they have enough room and don’t move them about too much. You want the surface of the meat to sear so as to create a wonderful charred flavour and effect. When you’re happy with the colour on one side, turn them over and repeat the process.

At this stage I like to put them into a low oven (100 degrees Celsius) to rest and come up to the right temperature (65 degrees Celsius – you can check with an oven probe). The meat should be firm but still a little pink. I like to eat my pork medium.

While I’m waiting, I make a quick sauce. Strain the pan of the oil and deglaze with some medium dry sherry. Add some chopped dried apricots, then add some cream. Lower the heat and reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a spoon.

To finish, I add some chopped wild garlic leaves and season to taste with a little sea salt.