Seasonal suppers: Wild watercress

Wild garlic, watercress, rocket: all of these greens appear in abundance in April. Wild garlic has become so popular that now you see it in some supermarkets. We still forage for ours. I think it is perhaps the most enjoyable herb to forage for with the family. Easy to identify because of its smell and flower, I enjoy getting the kids to collect it.

We're used to seeing rocket and watercress in shops but did you know that varieties also grow wild? Wild watercress is not as piquant as its cultivated brother. It still makes a great purée or soup. Wild rocket is often more bitter and carries quite a hot punch. Seasonal greens are full of essential vitamins and minerals, specifically A and C and iron. Did you know a dandelion leaf has all your daily vitamin C? So make sure you eat your greens.

The bitter quality of these leaves is very good for our digestive system. It regulates our stomach acid. As a taste, bitter is often overlooked in the western diet. We tend to focus on salt, sugar and fat, regulating bitter and sour. But bitter and sour are big tastes and they need to be balanced with the others. Watercress and brown crab (another seasonal treat) are a beautiful combination.

It doesn’t have to be fancy. Try a fine crab and watercress sandwich on brown soda (to make it extra dark we add treacle and stout). Pick through the crab for small bones then dress with some mayonnaise and freshly chopped tarragon. If you like you can add the zest and juice of a lemon. Otherwise, have a look at some of the wonderful vinegars from Wild Irish Foragers. I find their honeysuckle shrub adds a particular tangy taste to dressed crab.

For a nice watercress purée: pick a handful of watercress and blanch it in boiling water with a handful of organic baby spinach. Refresh in ice water and blend until super smooth. Crab on bread and purée on crab. Done.